Undercover designed by Jun Takashi unveiled spring/summer  2016 collection . The showwas  at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris,of course.

Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does. „The people need to be strong,” he said. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”

Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips; some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list.