Militarism, that was a prevalent theme in David Komá’s collection yesterday.Donatella Versace just launched her martial-themed spring-summer 2016 collection.. I’s easy to understand why some designers makes military theme so often: the well done military collections can look very sexy and exactly this the most women likes. It can seems contradictory in an industry based on generating Innovation
Komá explaned it in his way – “We have such incredible girls here, and it’s about being inspired by them. Wanting them to look cool, to look fresh, and to enjoy clothes.”
His Inspiration seems to be all Military Service: The first wave was naval, an interplay of navy and white with decorative insignia buttons on looks that included an angled peak-lapel, three-button, double-breasted jacket and minidresses and this rearranged the fold and contrast of traditional sailor suits. As second came the army; the olive section included a cutaway backless dress in leather—the top and bottom half linked by a clasp of three gleaming officer stripes. Soft kicky trousers were topped with deconstructed bodices, while the classic field jacket was turned into a sleeveless minidress with silk poacher pockets—a skinny belt peppered with eyelets cinched the waist. And than came the third part : the Glamour- The cocktail contingency was, as ever, well catered for with this collection and next season his customers have something to wear with it. Yesterday was also Koma’s debut bag collection for the Mugler House that took shape in architectural shapes with metal frames to complement the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his spring/summer 2016 collection in Paris Fashion Week.
Yamamoto’s spring collection was brimming with the fashion for which he’s famous. Black. Wrapping. Draping. Deconstruction. Sophistication.
Black fabric came gracefully draped and knotted around the body in asymmetric versions of Greco-Roman and Japanese robes. Lean and sensual, flashing flesh here and there, the silhouettes took on an urban tone when paired with high-top sneakers. In a shift to corroded romance, corsets overflowed with fabric and boning over layered hoop skirts. It segued to an artful street vibe with graffiti in the shape of hands on a cutout bodice. A black corset dress, cut up and draped over a broken-down denim cage skirt and jeans, provided the collection’s most current and cool Moment.
Undercover designed by Jun Takashi unveiled spring/summer 2016 collection . The showwas at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris,of course.
Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does. „The people need to be strong,” he said. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”
Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips; some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list.