Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week.

Vivienne Westwood  has made a habit of using her fashion shows as a platform for activism. This season, she was championing two related causes. On the runway she paid homage to Venice, a city that, perhaps due to climate change, is sinking even faster than it was before. Venice is a good theme for Westwood—her shows tend to have a certain carnival atmosphere in their mix of the decadent and the louche. You’d have expected a Vivienne Westwood Save Venice! collection to feature quite a few of her signature evening dresses, with their bouffant skirts and baroque swirls of sculptural draping but instead of cocktail looks, she emphasized rather plainspoken daywear silhouettes, shown on male as well as female models, in a gesture that read less political than as an homage to the Venetian tradition of the masque. The cross-dressing theme was echoed as well in the array of tailored items, in particular suits that looked oversize and mannish, with trousers cut to appear as though they’d been cinched up spontaneously to fit a woman’s smaller frame. That was one of Westwood’s dramatic flourishes; others included poufed sleeves and hardware and crystal embellishment sewn onto jackets. Westwood made a few very spectacular pieces, such as the extra-long coats worn high overhead and a bodysuit of sequin-dripping net that conjured a very fancy birdcage. Of course those looks had quite an impact on the runway.
What is always clear at a Vivienne Westwood show, despite the reliable spectacle, is exactly what has ensured the designer’s longevity: wearability.  The ruffled-hem wrap dresses; the sexy oversized tailoring; and the embroidered skirt and sweater combos had serious appeal. These are clothes that time and time again highlight the beauty of the female form, made by a woman who knows exactly the areas that women want ( and not) !

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Mugler Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -Paris Fashion Week

Militarism, that was a prevalent theme in  David Komá’s  collection yesterday.Donatella Versace just launched her martial-themed spring-summer 2016 collection.. I’s easy to understand why some designers makes military theme so often: the well done military collections can look very sexy and exactly this the most women likes. It can seems contradictory in an industry based on generating Innovation
Komá  explaned it in his way – “We have such incredible girls here, and it’s about being inspired by them. Wanting them to look cool, to look fresh, and to enjoy clothes.”
His Inspiration seems to be  all Military Service:  The first wave was naval, an interplay of navy and white with decorative insignia buttons on looks that included an angled peak-lapel, three-button, double-breasted jacket and minidresses and this  rearranged the fold and contrast of traditional sailor suits. As second  came the army; the olive section included a cutaway backless dress in leather—the top and bottom half linked by a clasp of three gleaming officer stripes. Soft kicky trousers were topped with deconstructed bodices, while the classic field jacket was turned into a sleeveless minidress with silk poacher pockets—a skinny belt peppered with eyelets cinched the waist. And than came the third part : the Glamour-  The cocktail contingency was, as ever, well catered for with this collection and next season his customers have something to wear with it. Yesterday was also Koma’s debut bag collection for the Mugler House that took shape in architectural shapes with metal frames to complement the collection.

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his spring/summer 2016 collection in Paris Fashion Week.
Yamamoto’s spring collection was brimming with the fashion for which he’s famous. Black. Wrapping. Draping. Deconstruction. Sophistication.
Black fabric came gracefully draped and knotted around the body in asymmetric versions of Greco-Roman and Japanese robes. Lean and sensual, flashing flesh here and there, the silhouettes took on an urban tone when paired with high-top sneakers. In a shift to corroded romance, corsets overflowed with fabric and boning over layered hoop skirts. It segued to an artful street vibe with graffiti in the shape of hands on a cutout bodice. A black corset dress, cut up and draped over a broken-down denim cage skirt and jeans, provided the collection’s most current and cool Moment.

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Undercover Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

 Undercover designed by Jun Takashi unveiled spring/summer  2016 collection . The showwas  at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris,of course.
Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does. „The people need to be strong,” he said. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”
Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips; some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list.


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Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Raf Simons left nothing unconsidered for his Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Show today (02 October,2015), from the stunning venue to the starry front row. As for the clothes, they were a tender take on Dior  house codes. Dior created a man-made hill in the center of the Louvre’s Cour Carrée covered with 400,000 delphiniums as its show venue this season.
The scene provided an elegant backdrop for Dior’s VIP arrivals, includingEmilia Clarke,Marisa Berenson,Elizabeth Olsen and Simons muse Hanne Gaby Odiele , who took to lying down in the flowers before the Show.
And then there was Rihanna . Wearing a Fall 2015 Haute Couture coat and aviator sunglasses, Rihanna took her way to the front row, drawing plenty of paparazzi Attention.
The show opened with Dior’s new favorite model, Sofia Mechetner. You’ll remember her as the Israeli teen who met Simons by chance in a Dior boutique and went on to sign a six-figure contract with the house.Every look was carried by the same shoe silhouette, an ankle-strap mule with a pointed toe and accentuated buckle detailing.The Dior sequin turtleneck from Pre-Fall 2015 collection – is the must-own item among the fashion set today-it will be soon  replaced by the cropped sweaters with scalloped edging Simons sent out today.The sheer trend continued at Dior, with transparent floor-length dresses in stripes layered over prim ivory underpinnings.
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