The first question is : What’s going on in the fashion industry? First, on 7 October 2015,Kering announced that Demna Gvasalia will lead the creative direction team for iconic fashion house Balenciaga, as second, on October 22, Raf Simons left Dior House which is the jewel in the crown of french& world fashion and on October 28, the Breaking News again, Alber Elbaz left Lanvin.
One example :the brand such Chanel send a consistent message about what they are and what they stand for. If you are going to invest, you invest in that.Also if you don’t like one collection or maybe complete season. During Elbaz tenure Lanvin look became so recognizable that in 2010 Lanvin launched a collaboration with H&M. Iconic house as Lanvin is, collaborated with H&M! Lanvin was founded in 1889,by Jeanne Lanvin.In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturiére. But today is October 28,2015 and the discussions and speculiations are going Forward. The questions such “ Who -or will Alber Elbaz replace Simons at the helm of Dior? Who will replace Alber Elbaz in Lanvin?“ are still open.
As always, when a departure is announced, speculation is rife as to who could replace him. Riccardo Tisci is rumoured to be a candidate, but here comes the question,will Riccardo Tisci leave Givenchy in 2015-2016? He refused one time, so why must he change his opinion now, when he want to start with Givenchy Haute Couture?Young LVMH Talent Jonathan Andreson , currently at Loewe, is also being mooted. It is possible, however – as they did with Simons – that the company could look to an outside hire, which is where the names being connected with the job become even more diverse and interesting. Gucci’sAlessandro Michele, EX Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz , New York’s duo Proenza Schouler and also Olivier Theyskens are also being connected with the now-vacant role.
Elbaz’s exit from Lanvin places him in prime position for the post of artistic director of Dior, left open by the departure of Raf Simons last week.
The designer – known for his charisma, flair and couture-like approach to ready-to-wear – had a successful if disrupted career prior to Lanvin. Following an early placement at Guy Laroche, he went on to work at Yves Saint Laurent, and was expected to become its creative director when Saint Laurent retired
Elbaz worked for the Paris fashion house Lanvin from 2001 until October 2015. In 2014, Lanvin had estimated revenues of 250 million euros.
Here is a complete statement, signed by Elbaz :
At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder, I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years; express my affection to all my wonderful colleagues in the Lanvin ateliers who accompanied me, and who enriched and supported my work. Together we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury fashion houses.
I also wish to express my profound and deepest gratitude to all of the clients and friends, to the French and international press and to all those business partners who collaborated with Lanvin, providing us with support since 2001.
I wish the house of Lanvin the future it deserves among the best French luxury brands, and hope that it finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward.
Undercover designed by Jun Takashi unveiled spring/summer 2016 collection . The showwas at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris,of course.
Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does. „The people need to be strong,” he said. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”
Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips; some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list.
Chloé threw something of a curveball today,01. October 2015. Instead of the wistful silhouettes came tracksuits, sporting stripes and carnival colours referencing a different dimension of the 70ies, the decade the house continues to reinvent so well. It’s not what you would immediately associate with the romantic Chloé girl, but as Clare Waight Keller explained after the show, this was about finding a new optimism.The usual lace slips were grounded with jogging bottoms; the signature cheesecloth maxi-dresses came not in cornflower blue and toffee hues but in sherbet shades; and bootcuts were replaced by easy, low-slung harem pants. It was relaxed and easy, as though Chloé’s girl was a girl on her gap year . Chloé unveiled us very youthful,really sophisticated high summer collection
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in Milan Fashion Week.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, who we know from his time as creativ director of Vionnet has now been three seasons at Jil Sander, stepping in to fill the shoes of the eponymous designer herself when she left the brand for the third time.Spring-summer collection began and ended with soft, white silks, blouses with slashed sleeves and skirts tied off in a knot to start, plus a neatly cut natural-toned ,very graceful gardener with little slits at the shoulders, and a loose, long-sleeved tunic dress with utility strap details at the chest and hem. In between came riffs on shirting such as a periwinkle shirtdress twisted at the midriff with a cutout along the waist.
Silhouettes are soft and fluid, satins slinky and in China blue, gentle draping an obvious follow-on from his Vionnet days. It is a elegance, Rodolfo Paglialunga has done an adequate job adhering to the house’s minimalist credo, designing nice, chicly practical clothes which every women must have in her wardrobe.
Daphne Groeneveld detours to the dark side in *I am a Superstar* Editorial lensed by Jason Kibbler for Vogue Russia , August 2015. Skin tight feels right as the penetrating power of purple takes over. Fueled with the fire of crystal decadence, tectonic flavors fill the page. Playing a rock-star with a twist, dutch model gives off a hypnotic haze artfully backed by a violet-vibe. Fashion editor Olga Dunina makes a perfect job letting the breeze of high fashion fly free. Leather and lace never looked so cool with sexy panels sewn into the sides. Daphne Groeneveld wears *Looks* from the new collections of Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, Altuzarra, Gucci, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana ,Chanel and more selected by Fashion Editor.
Purple hues back the attack by amping things up with a smokey effect. Letting the mist of sensation fall over the face, Make-up Artist Francelle Daly invites vintage beauty to inspire. The shiny shades of Summer erupt with royal colors that light up the lids. Shadows speak with tints that extend out from the lashes and up to the brows. Giving us a nod to the 70’s, mascara embraces the eyes by defining the decade. From richly retro to aggressively avant-garde, orbs evoke both blue & green. The skin takes on a subtle pallor with frosted eyes and soft, peach lips. Hair stylist, Esther Langham makes the last touch of every perfect Look which we can see following this Editorial.