Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

03/10/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his spring/summer 2016 collection in Paris Fashion Week.

Yamamoto’s spring collection was brimming with the fashion for which he’s famous. Black. Wrapping. Draping. Deconstruction. Sophistication.

Black fabric came gracefully draped and knotted around the body in asymmetric versions of Greco-Roman and Japanese robes. Lean and sensual, flashing flesh here and there, the silhouettes took on an urban tone when paired with high-top sneakers. In a shift to corroded romance, corsets overflowed with fabric and boning over layered hoop skirts. It segued to an artful street vibe with graffiti in the shape of hands on a cutout bodice. A black corset dress, cut up and draped over a broken-down denim cage skirt and jeans, provided the collection’s most current and cool Moment.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -Paris Fashion Week

03/10/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Designer Alexander Wang left Maison Balenciaga.Today,02.October 2015,he unveiled his last collection designed for the Balenciaga House.Wang will now focus solely on his eponymous fashion house based out of New York.“

Back to Wang’s last Balenciaga Show: it seems that his swan song was the freest of any of the collections he did for the house, and the most tender.

„When you know it’s your last anything, you say, ‘Let’s take a risk,’ what do you have to lose?” Wang said backstage. “At a house that’s known for innovation, I thought, ‘Let’s think about it the opposite way, let’s think about fabrics and shapes that feel supple and simple, but approach them in an artisanal, couture way.’ ”

Ivory silk-satin dresses streamed in ruffles, while white feather garlands were wrapped and draped and appliquéd on layered tops, smocked cotton summer dresses and playsuits. Elsewhere, there were beautiful scoop-back, finely knitted wool slips with embroidered lace inserts; sumptuous matelassé jackets and lace hotel-room style slippers, all of which glided out on a soft, dusty pink carpet beside gently rippling water installations. Every look was a dreamy shade of white, from the ruffled slip dresses to the low-slung trouser and crop top pairings.

Undercover Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

02/10/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Undercover designed by Jun Takashi unveiled spring/summer 2016 collection . The showwas at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris,of course.

Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections usually have a message, but you don’t have to get his deeper meanings to appreciate what he does. „The people need to be strong,” he said. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a live version of the Rolling Stones’s song for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”

Takahashi came at his insurrectionary message both subtly and less so. To start, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to give his tailoring a ready-for-battle attitude. There were zip-up pockets front and back and on the hips; some jackets were so transformed that their fronts were mere straps covering bare breasts. It could’ve been a silly exercise, but Takahashi is a clever tailor, with a wicked sense of humor. In another sign he’s down with the people, he co-opted low-culture concert T-shirts for high-fashion purposes. The Stones’s young faces stared out from inside the four suits of a card deck on a miniskirt and at the hems of pants. For every “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts list.

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Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

02/10/201502/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Raf Simons left nothing unconsidered for his Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Show today (02 October,2015), from the stunning venue to the starry front row. As for the clothes, they were a tender take on Dior house codes. Dior created a man-made hill in the center of the Louvre’s Cour Carrée covered with 400,000 delphiniums as its show venue this season.

The scene provided an elegant backdrop for Dior’s VIP arrivals, includingEmilia Clarke,Marisa Berenson,Elizabeth Olsen and Simons muse Hanne Gaby Odiele , who took to lying down in the flowers before the Show.

And then there was Rihanna . Wearing a Fall 2015 Haute Couture coat and aviator sunglasses, Rihanna took her way to the front row, drawing plenty of paparazzi Attention.

The show opened with Dior’s new favorite model, Sofia Mechetner. You’ll remember her as the Israeli teen who met Simons by chance in a Dior boutique and went on to sign a six-figure contract with the house.Every look was carried by the same shoe silhouette, an ankle-strap mule with a pointed toe and accentuated buckle detailing.The Dior sequin turtleneck from Pre-Fall 2015 collection – is the must-own item among the fashion set today-it will be soon replaced by the cropped sweaters with scalloped edging Simons sent out today.The sheer trend continued at Dior, with transparent floor-length dresses in stripes layered over prim ivory underpinnings.

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

02/10/201502/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Creativ designer of Lanvin ,Alber Elbaz unveiled us his spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection in Paris Fashion Week .How nice it was to see – i’m speaking about live streaming here,-Alber Elbaz putting Lanvin out there on the front line yesterday evening. He staged his spring-summer collection as theater, placing the Lanvin name up in glittering lights at one end of the runway and sending out a show he said was a “manifesto.”

Ruth Bell opend the show,wearing a men’s inspired white dress shirt paired with black slim-fit pants. The first look gave a hint of what was to come—a collection which was heavily influenced by menswear as shown by the subsequent looks including tuxedo inspired jackets and high necklines. The show moved swiftly through “acts.” First, black and white daywear—pants and blouses with balloon sleeves or rippling flounces were followed by chic-simple silk dresses.

Balmain Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

01/10/201502/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Creativ director Olivier Rousteing unveiled Balmain spring/summer 2016 ready-to wear collection.

And The Balmain Army was out in force this afternoon at Le Grand Hotel in Paris, where Olivier Rousteing informed in the show notes that this season would feature different elements from previous collections. The cast included models -IT Girls- of the moment like Kendall Jenner, Jourdan Dunn and Gigi Hadid.
His upcoming collaboration with H&M made him comb his own Balmain archives, reminding him of the wealth of material that was “the result of four years of hard work,” he said. Four years is a long time in his industry and as a result he deemed it time to introduce new ideas for spring and to broaden the Balmain DNA. that most prominently manifested in tiered ruffles (flounce is shaping up to be a big story next season): they cascaded on trousers, along sleeves, and bib-fronts adding a romantic femininity to the fierce sex appeal of the whip-stitching, fishnets and strong shoulders also out in force. This new found softness also rippled through via a pretty pastel palette – the nude tones, like the new silhouettes, all served to temper Balmain’s customary opulence.
Rousteing credited the power of the house’s social media presence as a vital ingredient to its success in moving forward, confident that all the dresses we saw this afternoon would be shared and shared again on various platforms very soon. .

Chloé Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

01/10/201501/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Chloé threw something of a curveball today,01. October 2015. Instead of the wistful silhouettes came tracksuits, sporting stripes and carnival colours referencing a different dimension of the 70ies, the decade the house continues to reinvent so well. It’s not what you would immediately associate with the romantic Chloé girl, but as Clare Waight Keller explained after the show, this was about finding a new optimism.The usual lace slips were grounded with jogging bottoms; the signature cheesecloth maxi-dresses came not in cornflower blue and toffee hues but in sherbet shades; and bootcuts were replaced by easy, low-slung harem pants. It was relaxed and easy, as though Chloé’s girl was a girl on her gap year . Chloé unveiled us very youthful,really sophisticated high summer collection

Vionnet Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

01/10/201501/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

According to the press notes at the show, the new Vionnet collection was inspired by curves and by dancing. That’s the thing about semiotics, though: To each her own! An alternative reading of Goga Ashkenazi’s latest outing for the label was vestal virgins circa 2500 A.D. attending a postapocalyptic prom. That seemed as coherent a logic as any for this rather daffy group of clothes, what with the gartered bodysuits and sheer, floor-sweeping overskirts, plissé gowns worn with backpacks, and feral leathers and capes.

The plissé and the Grecian draping were a nod to Madeleine Vionnet, of course, and she would have had no trouble identifying her handwriting in a simple column dress of draped nude and ivory silk, or in the bone white draped frock with jewelry embellishment modeled at the close of the show by Saskia de Brauw. She might even have nodded in recognition at a micro-mini plissé dress—an ace look for a would-be modern Artemis. There were other nice pieces scattered throughout—the fabrics here were choice, and it was hard not to like most of them—but the button-down-plus-bubble-skirt and bodysuit-plus-anything propositions were a seriously hard sell. Ashkenazi appears to want to update the Vionnet formula, make it seem aggressively modern; the trouble with that is, Madeleine Vionnet’s ideas are timeless and look modern still. Witness the appeal of the simplest, most signature Vionnet looks here.

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection designed by John Galliano – Paris Fashion Week

30/09/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

John Galliano had unveiled us his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano proposed us chic and luxuriuos looks because recycling and deconstruction can still be done so authentically,so perfect ans also be commercial, especially when it will be done by the genie as John Galliano is.

Let us speak about the show and about „new“ Galliano : also if he didn’t come out physically, this show was a kind of coming out. It was a re-emergence of an enigma. Spring/Summer 2016 brings us one step closer to the Galliano we knew in the early days – going full throttle, full of ideas and enjoying the joie de vivre of it all. In short, this show was near incredible. The first exits poured out onto the catwalk. Previous collections at Maison Margiela have seen Galliano engage with a bag lady kind of intellect Today’s version of events evoked down and out heiress. In the first part the ornate crystal jewellery was bricolaged onto the tops of ears and pinned in swathes across knee-lenth coats and slightly padded and roomy 1950s-style gowns. Paris shoes leaned back in an arched Versaille style, whilst fishnet tights were pulled over the entire shoe, and added to the unhinged styling.

There were also men on the womenswear runway , which is a new thing for the re-launched house. This is proof that the label wants to symbiotically promote dual narratives. Furthermore, due to some of the men wearing dresses, it was a signifier of the house . The mood of the designer’s avant-garde show was captured perfectly by its diverse, gender-fluid cast. While girls like Paula Galecka,Ysaunny Brito and Sora Choi, reflected a youthful, almost innocent ideal of beauty, models Maarten Convens, Vincent Beier, Carl Hjelm Sandqvist, and Théo Bianconi presented a captivating androgyny.

The final part of the show looked East for inspiration as traditional Geisha garb was transformed by Galliano into something stiffer and more structured than the original silk Kimonos. Where purses replaced obi bows, and kitten heels with pronounced posteriors were worn instead of traditional geta sandals. The result was oddly lovely and completely apart from anything else currently happening in fashion.

As ever Galliano’s hand could be seen in all. Making treasured pieces, each of which appear individual, has been his marker long before Margiela but it is one that’s flourishing as he continues to re-establish himself and the house

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