Fausto Puglisi unveiled his Emanuel Ungaro Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection today in Paris Fashion Week.
Great designers’ greatness is stamped on our memory by the signature codes they leave behind them. Hence, when other designers succeed the house’s founder, they face a challenge: a delicate wrestle between the codes they have signed up to inherit and the urge to express their own point of view. Their own codes and Puglisi has his code,in fact Fausto Puglisi chose to focus on a set of sweetly provocative floral macramé looks, all froth and of-that-era liberation touched with a softened space Age futurism.Impressively, Puglisi re-established a connection with the Swiss factory that made Ungaro’s ’60s pieces to create a wonderfully psychedelic lace macramé of ochre flowers and paisley petals used in his last capelet—teamed with matching thigh-highs and a long loose skirt. The netted-check that ran throughout the collection, even down to the weave of the pressed-foam ruffles that edged many of these Looks, A harder, more Puglisi-ish preoccupation—expressed itself in the ringlet bonding on black vinyl and hot pink skirts, and as suspension on floral-scattered bustiers. “A little bit bondage, maybe, but also in romantic attitude. This is not a collection for wallflowers or delicate petals—but for a woman in search of punchy, in-your-face prettiness, it will have allure.