The „Paris Cosmopolite“ 2016/17 Métiers d’art collection takes the newly-renovated Ritz Paris hotel for its decor, a setting cherished by both the House of Chanel and its founder Gabrielle Chanel. For this occasion Karl Lagerfeld affirms his attachment to Paris by choosing the Ritz Paris which he considers to be „the cosmopolitan spot par excellence“.The designer wrangled some of his muses and famous friends to walk the show — including Pharrell Williams, Alice Dellal and Lily-Rose Depp — who negotiated tables that had just been cleared of a three-course lunch. Subsequent shows, each with about 300 guests seated at round tables dotting the main-floor bar, restaurant, library and winter garden, came with afternoon tea or dinner service.
Nothing is conventional and ordinary in Gucci Pre-Fall 2017 collection; everything is peppered by a surprising details a Alessandro Michele’s magic touch.Flying carpets, fire-breathing dragons, enigmatic panthers are only some of the elements in Gucci’s Pre-Fall fairy tail. Michele’s collection bring us in different worlds, ages and cultures.Opulent evening dresses, tracksuit-inspired leggings and sweatshirts and shirtdresses in a patchwork of 60ies style patterns till knitted cape with embroidered bunnie.There is more that 80 looks which are finishing with embroidered boots and sparkling flats. Bags come in oversized totes as well as leather miniatures tied around the waist. Simply fantastic!
Setting its latest ad campaign in the stately Chatsworth House, Gucci brings its particular brand of cool back to its origins in the English countryside. Home to that same eccentricity that is at much quintessentially British as it has become quintessentially Gucci under Alessandro Michele’s direction, the country manor serves as a delightfully strange but appropriate setting for the brand’s Cruise 2017 collection.Shot by Glen Luchford, the campaign stars the great British actress Vanessa Redgrave alongside a gang of 8 models.
Designer Demna Gvasalia überrascht uns auch dieses mal, in seine Balenciaga Kollektion verbindet er viele Stoffe und Schnitte, wie Latex und Spandex, Seide und Leader.Er schafft der feinste Verbindung und führt das rebellische Spiel mit Fetisch und Fashion auf höchstem Niveau. Die gepolsterte Schultern von Maschulinen Jacken und enge Hosen und Jumpsuits in floralen Print lassen die Herzen von vielen Frauen höher schlagen. Wer ist Demna’s oder besser sagen, Balenciaga’s Women? Ist sie eine Verführerin? Die hoche Absätze von endlosen Stiefeln, die Latex Regenmanteln, Spandex und rote Nägeln – diese Looks lassen uns an Christobal Balenciaga denken. Gvasalia punktet auf Fetischismus in die Mode, aber was ist eigentlich die Mode, das ist doch ein Fetisch in sich selbst oder? Auch mit der Wahl von Schmuck für die Show überrasch Gvasalia seine Auditorium, er nimmt die Brosche und Halsketten aus Balenciaga Archiven und zeigt die in seinem Show. „Too much“ werdet Ihr fragen? Oder das ist eine tiefste Verbindung von „Gestern“ und „Heute“ und Hommage für Christobal Balenciaga?
Schon mit seinem Label Vetements schafte Demna Gvasalia bis ganz nach oben in Modische Olymp. Mittlerweile das ist die zweite Kollektion mit welche rebellische Kreativen Direktor von Balenciaga, uns begeistert. Seine Shows sind die höhst interessant und werden weltweit erwartet. In diese Saison schickt er nicht nur die beste Topmodels auf den Laufsteg aber auch die Newcomerinnen wie Radhika Nair and Shu Jing.
Lutz Huelle,german designer, famous in France more that in Germany, unveiled his spring 2017 collection yesterday, during Paris Fashion Week.The big news was the furthering of previous seasons’ trompe l’oeil layered denim. The silhouette was strong-shouldered and squared-off. Lutz is famous about his deconstructed design, and , there was deconstructed shirting in white and black but there was a new eastern influence that came through in the kimono-style wrapped jackets, or the mandarin collar of a camouflage topper piped in fuchsia. The one thing is sure, in next season german fashion scene will love Lutz Huelle’s collections as french trendsetters does.
It was a Bouchra Jarrar’s first Lanvin show. She closed her own label to accept the creative directorship, and has done her research on the woman who founded the house, unearthing the fact that Jeanne Lanvin predated Coco Chanel and and all the other female couturiers of the 20’s and 30’s.What can we tell about new Lanvin, yes, new, because the incredible house-centric codes of Alber Elbaz’s tenure seemingly be brushed under the carpet and Lanvin is now starting on a new journey. Bouchra has brought those signatures to Lanvin and playing within the boundaries of „veiling and unveiling“, Bouchra Jarrar announced in the show notes that she was embarking on an ongoing narrative around „the exchange of masculinity and femininity.“ But it is not new for Jarrar. In many looks we can recognize the Bouchra’s previuos creations, which she did for her own label, for example she played with transparencies in her S/S 2016 haute couture collection. Jarrar’s MUST pieces were recognizable , there were biker jackets and gilets and the lond draped dresses which in her own collections always looked elegant and more luxurious. But we must give Bouchra Jarrar time, the world of ready-to-wear collections is a new land for her.
English eccentricity of John Galliano goes through his Margiela SS 17 collection.Deconstruction and re-construction, creativity with the eye on the steetwear- all this showed us Galliano yesterday. The Spring/Summer 2017 is a grandios mixing up of everyday clothes in ways we’ve never seen before.Who were these figures with their earpieces and headsets, backpacks and yoga mats wearing Lucite-heeled clogs, were they humanoid space creatures from the future? Are they going to meditate on the present and future?Who said that Art, Fashion and Creativity should always be easy to understand? It was a great show and you can be sure that all pieces taken apart and hanging in a store or showing in online retailers, would appear just as wearable items which every women simply MUSTHAVE in her wardrobe next summer.