Fashion flashback : Gucci Fall/Winter 2015-2016 designed by Alessandro Michele

It’s a winter time and i’m choosing to focus on the fall-winter collections and make a kind of fashion flashback. The first collection to re-see is  a Gucci Fall/Winter 2015-2016. I choosed Gucci  because i like what Alessandro Michele did and does for Gucci, with fall/winter 2015-2016 Alessandro Michele made his womenswear debut for Gucci.The speed and scale of Gucci’s resurrection is astonishing. Michele  was appointed creative director just ten months ago and had only a few weeks to design his first men and women’s catwalk shows. And the most important News to tell – Alessandro Michele becomes next International Designer of the Year!
The British Fashion Awards plans to honor Alessandro Michele with the International Designer of the Year distinction for the work he has done as Gucci’s latest creative director.  In a short time frame, he essentially turned the fashion house around.Michele will receive his award on Nov. 23.   “I’m honored and still a little incredulous,” told the designer, regarding his win.
The British Fashion Awards is the biggest night in the British fashion calendar. It honours the UK’s brightest fashion and design talents – from established to emerging designers, to models and image makers.The most anticipated awards of the night are Womenswear Designer of the Year , the British Style Award (which goes to the nation’s most stylish celeb, voted for by the public) and Model of the Year.
Michele made the unexpected step up from accessories designer to creative director at Gucci in January 2015,replacing Frida Giannini who had been at the head of the firm for eight years. Michele’s experience with accessories led the fashion press to believe Gucci owners Kering fancied selling more handbags. However, it has been Michele’s vintage-inspired ruffled dresses, floral blouses and A-line skirts that have impressed critics and customers alike with a flurry of high-street imitators already tapping into the designer’s standout aesthetic.
Male models on the women’s catwalk, a debut menswear collection designed in the five days after his appointment and a significant departure from Giannini’s glamour and hard edges have all caught the eye at Gucci, with Michele clearly the man with the Midas touch.

 

 

 

BALMAIN X H&M Lookbook

The satin, the embroidery, the skintight tailoring—these are the signatures of Balmain that every member of Olivier Rousteing’s #BalmainArmy knows and loves. Lucky for shoppers on a budget, these are also the details that fans of the brand will find in its upcoming H&M collaboration, out November 5. Take a peek at the line’s womenswear lookbook  and you’ll find reimaginings of Balmain classics, from the pearl-embellished dresses to the oversize leather coats, all as chic and distinctively Balmain as the collections Rousteing shows on the runway season after season.
 Photos courtesy  of  H&M

BALMAINxH&M Lookbook

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Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection, creativ director Nicolas Ghesquière.Vuitton get it right when it hired Nicolas Ghesquière who presented another stellar collection at the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation yesterday morning on the final day of Paris Fashion Week offering colored biker jackets and shiny Dresses.
A computerised voice introduced the spring/summer 2016 show as „A journey to the frontiers of the digital era“. A conversation between technology and nature animated the new collection, his most audacious yet for the LV  House.
Ghesquière’s cyberpunks wore moto jackets and metal-embroidered skirts, laser-cut leathers and beaded knits that coded like armor, and spaceship-print pants.  The materials looked high-tech but were actually not synthetics at all. What with the nailhead-embroidered peasant dresses, the crafty sweaters, and the festival-girl crop tops and shorts, Vuitton Spring looked a lot like a digital bohemia.Who knew where Ghesquière’s spirited parade of intergalactic punky girls were headed?
Front  row : actresses Catherine Deneuve and Michelle Williams, models also wore striped knits, shiny mesh tank tops, tops with ruffle collars, bubble skirts, jumpsuits and jodhpur-like trousers bearing colorful Patchwork.

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Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

At Valentino, on the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, the fashion Insiders stopped  filming and snapping photos with their phones  and they  and gave Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli  not just a well-deserved round of applause, but a cheering standing ovation..
Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli made a research which resulted in the gorgeous fusions between Italian and African traditions. They met in the textiles and tailoring and the way the roman influences Chiuri and Piccioli had used in their couture show segued into tribal treatments—the strips of leather that began as a Gladiator reference became studded; the roman sandals gained carved ebony heels; the pagan necklaces of their former show now appeared in white ceramic, suggesting abstracted teeth or shells; and the house expertise in embroidery produced tiny beaded Masai-derived patterns and bold peacock feather trims.There were also the  african prints depicting tribal scenes of leopards, rhinos, giraffes and elephants, kinetic geometric tribal markings, while cuffs and necklines exploded in quills and peacock feathers. Fringing is a mainstay here and it swished in tiered raffia to make up a coat, and from suede miniskirts and capes. A series of tie-dye pieces – a jacquard coat, cargo jacket and pair of flares were also standout. And then came the fragile lace maxi dresses, so delicate they could almost evaporate right there and then.  More prêt-a-couture than ready-to-wear, this collection never pandered or dumbed down its chosen theme.

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Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Hedi Slimane unveiled his Saint Laurent spring/summer  collection.
Hedi Slimane has turned Saint Laurent into a power brand. More than that, the success of his breaking down the house and rendering it into accessible, uncomplicated items has set off a chain reaction at the top of the designer fashion industry.. Not everyone can package up a look and whack it to the public in such a first-degree, widely understandable  as Slimane. For Spring, one glance at the lowbrow tiaras, the sparkly see-through mini-mesh dresses, the rock-chick leather jackets, and the skinny legs of the models shoved into Wellington boots told us where he was going. To Glastonbury with Courtney and Kate Moss it was, with an entourage of throwback shaggy-headed waifs and a caravan-load of ready-made vintage-y stuff.
Slimane was smart to suggest he was pitching it in a more down-to-earth way this season. There is a movement toward real, ordinary clothes going on. Slimane seemed to have tuned into that when he came up with a perfectly ordinary beige trenchcoat, sand-color camisole, jeans and black Wellingtons, a faded army-surplus shirt, patchworked denim capes, and leather bomber jackets . For the people who only saw the Saint Laurent collections via their cell phones or computers, it is hard to comprehend the quality of the materials and the detailed craftsmanship that go into every shimmering see-through minidress or patchwork denim coat that appears on the runway. Underneath all of Silmane’s sartorial insubordination are well-made clothes that are deftly executed.The designer titled this collection “Saint Laurent Skin,” and while he might still be getting under the skin of a few people, Silmane also has found a way for the brand to completely shed the skin of its past for one of his own making

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Sonia Rykiel Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Julie De Libran unveiled Sonia Rykiel spring/summer  2016 ready-to-wear collection.
Julie de Libran was greeting guests at the entrance of Sonia Rykiel’s Boulevard Saint Germain boutique yesterday.  A poster of a blue cocktail as an invitation, an abundance of colorful libations proffered up upon arrival at the show, a catwalk covered in glitter and a cool two-woman electronic band called C.A.R. singing elliptically in French mean just one thing: it’s party time at Sonia Rykiel and ist’s a Julie de Libran’s debut in the role of creativ director.She comes to Rykiel from Louis Vuitton, where she designed the preseason collections under Marc Jacobs.
De Libran has a light touch, Rykiel’s signature stripes materialized in many different guises: on tweedy tailoring, knitted fur chubbies, a belted organza peasant dress and the bikini underneath it, even on a basic V-neck. As a female designer, she can romance an easy three-quarter-length denim skirt or an army parka just as well as she can a sequined minidress, but by the end of the collection, things were very Glamour- there were a final series of richly colored sequin gowns. They will shimmer and sparkle even in the darkest corner of a european’s famous nightclubs. And for those who prefer a more understated boit de nuit alternative, de Libran has got them covered. Wearing a pair of silk pajamas covered in a delicate bird motif to go out dancing all night just sounds like the chicest thing going.

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Hermés Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

 It’s not easy to find words to explain the ingeniously crafted, superfine fabrics and leather it uses in Hermés without sounding pretentious.  I’ll try to describe what the Hermés about : Hermès is the essence of the cultivated, inbred french point of view that if you have wealth, it must be spent so that it doesn’t show except to those of your class. (Anyway a woman must never blunder by trying to be sexy, appear to wear makeup, or have done hair direct from hair stylist! – but too much women are half-blind to all these nuances. ) A lot of us  wanted to know how Vanhee-Cybulski would set out the Hermès principles for Spring. and what can i tell you- she did it – with a simplified sequence of blue-black tailoring and grid-patterned black-on-cream tops and pants, and mustard-color dresses in cotton and leather, accessorized with large quartz and clear resin cuffs.  She’s brought a sense of relaxed city-sportiness to the picture, showing Hermès trainers with many looks and dialing back on the horsey heritage for the moment. It’s not showy “fashion” that is being sold here; more a carefully calibrated sense of a lifestyle which consciously rises above trendiness. For those who want to belong to it, the quality of the materials will be explained in the ritual of buying at Hermès.

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Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Giambattista Valli is finding favour with the little babydoll dress right now – it’s a style that underpins his Giamba line and it’s one that he gave to us in the plenty last season. Only where then it was over trousers for long and lean lengths, this time round it was about bare legs on show and great flat-formed gladiator sandals that climbed the length of the leg beneath a coat of similar proportions up top. He continued with his riff on Seventies patterning and made sure there was a handful of gowns to swoon over too,they billowed in hippy grace and half morphed into the babydoll numbers that preceded them. Valli seems to have found a new youthful groove when it comes to his ready-to-wear line.

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Sacai Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

The hallmark of the Sacai brand is its hybrid designs..A dress is never simply a dress. A jacket is not just a jacket. Dis-assembled, re-configured then re-assembled is the Sacai way The results always being a cool crossbreed of Beauty.
At this season Chitose Abe was brimming with ideas inspired by thrift-shop throw-away finds. Her treasures comprised souvenir scarf prints, hers depicted a safari Leopard scene, american bandana motifs,victorian lace – all came together to create cropped bombers with open backs, military jackets with gold guipure lace and epaulettes streaming in silk cord, knife-pleated skirts and wide leg trousers gashed open.

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