Maison Martin Margiela Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 –
Paris Fashion Week, June 26,2015 .
The collection is great, is Maison Margiela had a minimal moment with its spring-summer 2016 menswear collection. Always known for its tailoring and experimentation, the fashion brand approached the season with a more wearable attitude.
John Galliano’s appointment as Creative Director of Maison Margiela last October resulted in huge hype and anticipation. There was no sign of it subsiding in the run-up to Friday’s presentation of the brand’s spring/summer 2016 menswear collection in Paris. There was only one problem. No involvement from Galliano. Moments before the show began, Margiela representatives confirmed this collection was designed by the design team or, in brand parlance, “the collective”. The sense of anticlimax was understandable.
Galliano’s influence would have meant a kind of flamboyance. Famous for post-show outfits that have included an astronaut and a matador, this fantastical approach – and penchant for catwalk drama – has fuelled his menswear designs. By contrast, the clothes here were wearable, even quite conservative, particularly for a house that, since it was founded by the Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988, has showcased all manner of catwalk oddness – including masks, oversized fur coats and jewelled vests for men.
There were beautifully cut, slim, sharp suits, and easy sportswear in hooded tops and simple sweaters. A few elements marked out the collection’s Margiela-ness: rubber tops with paper patches like papier-mache, drawing-pin detailing on jacket lapels, and beaten-up boots. The result was a fairly typical mix of minimalism, hand-finished details and deconstructed classics. Not quite the Galliano reboot some were hoping for, but a perfectly nice collection.
That overhaul will come, Margiela representatives promise, but Galliano’s input at the house will be a gradual process rather than an immediate shakeup. This is the third show season since the designer officially took over at the house, part of Galliano’s wider rehabilitation, in part supported by his friend the American Vogue editor, Anna Wintour. His Margiela collections to date include couture and women’s ready-to-wear.
Interview with Renzo Rosso:
Working with John today is like having another atmosphere, everything inside the company is so magical now, even when you open the door you can feel the vibrations and now we are back with a fantastic energy and it’s so, so nice, so exciting, and also so lovely to be working with John. You can see that John started to give us some input, it’s still Margiela, very Margiela for me, thanks to Staff international, and if you can go to see closer one by one the product and look at the quality of the products and also we improved the quality of the materials and the fashion touch from John is unbelievable. It’s still Margiela but also John, so that’s great.“ Copyright : Paris Modes Productions
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