Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Artistic director Sebastien Meunier said the collection was titled Rising and that his starting point was the angular unreality of Alberto Giacometti, then added: “It is about the extreme elegance of women; how tall, how bright, how mysterious they can be. I pushed them in a super-elegant, kinky, sadomasochist form.” Yet SM motifs speak of subjugation—albeit consensual—as well as power and so seem only queasily reconcilable with the runway. The oily chartreuse feathering on sleeves and coral-like clusters of quills were here thanks to Meunier’s collaboration on this collection with artist Kate MccGwire. The quilled pieces were simultaneously beautiful and sad, organic reductions into abstraction for the sake of it. The topstitched paneled black tailoring of which the facades veered from biker to tuxedo, the painstakingly ruched black leather pants, and the backless black tank tops–slash-waistcoats with a melee of obi-belt knotting at the navel, all this pieces were sophisticated. And for those who enjoy pain, this was not a pleasure to watch because it was fine.

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