Francesco Scognamiglio Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in Milan Fashion Week, in the Piazza Duome, Salone Arengario. September 23, at 8.00 p.m.
Scognamiglio is very famous in Italy (and around the world) His clothes are the conviction with which he speaks. The press likes him and the press release published a quote from him, saying how delighted he is that fashion has the ability to continue the storytelling of Italian excellence. This country takes fashion extremely seriously, and many think Milan is still the international capital of fashion. Does it have the best fashion designers in the world- maybe, for sure the most of the best Fashion Maisons are italian… Is it the home of the best sculptors in the world, of all time- yes. And this we saw at Scognamiglo: sculpture coming alive, as wearable Fashion.
Francesco Scognamiglio Born in Naples and he is deeply in love with Naples, the city of staggering beauty and louche-ness, opposites that coexist in a web of inextricable contradictions. This clearly feels quite natural for the designer, who delves with abandon into Naples’s history and decadent heritage for inspiration. All that was apparent in his Spring collection, in which he referenced the esoteric Sansevero Chapel, a 16th-century masterpiece that hosts the statue of the Veiled Christ—a marble wonder that looks so incredibly real, as if it were made of actual flesh draped in the thinnest of fabric. “Theater, mirrors, artifice,” said the designer backstage, pointing out wispy, ruffled dresses in white and shell pink, light as a feather and almost liquid in their sensuality. Transparent Chantilly lace and inconspicuous point d’esprit conjured up a romantic feel for fluctuating long dresses, exuding reminiscences of boudoirs and 18th-century courtesans—yet they were slashed, layered, and multitiered to modern effect. Black silk mikado jackets with round shoulders felt more substantial; they came inlaid with graphic intarsia inspired by peeling stucco ceilings that looked like cracks through which a delicate jade green lining could be glimpsed. Dresses in white or black liquid satin were printed and embroidered with an oversize iris motif and adorned with an abundance of rosette appliqués; they balanced the overall barely there effect and the nude transparencies of the lineup. The craftsmanship was undoubtedly exquisite. It makes sense that Scognamiglio—backed by a new investor, Malaysian entrepreneur Johann Young—will debut his Haute Couture collection in Paris in 2016, where he’ll finally fulfill a childhood dream.