Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear * The Morning After* collection designed by Francisco Costa was shown in NYFW, September 17,2015.
Francisco Costa titled his spring/sumer Calvin Klein collection *The Morning after* to conjure the intimate daze of undone sensuality captured in moments of deconstructed purity and grunge Glamour.
This deflated chest look has already popped up on other catwalks, most notably Celine, but Costa unapologetically made it his own. And they weren’t the only interesting thing this collection had to offer.
Fluid slips, camisoles, wide trousers and trenches came in shades of stark white and porcelain with deliberately large yet gentle proportions. To decorate, Costa slashed, traced seams in rough-hewn stitching, and left garments trailing with loose straps and elongated sleeves for a bit of asylum chic.
A series of flower print pieces had a more commercial appeal and trousers with slits open at the back hem looked cool as they flapped along the models’ legs while they walked the catwalk in white silk platform Sneakers. The floral prints are making a contrast to the purist black and white .
Layering some of the looks with delicate chains worn like dainty harnesses added an exotic street Glamour.
Now, with over a decade at the helm of the brand’s womenswear, it is impressive to see the designer continuing to take risks and be bold. This season, those gambles paid off.