Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Sarah Burton unveiled Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 collection.It is most personal collection designed by Sarah Burton since she took over as creative director of Alexander McQueen. “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft,” said Burton backstage.

To an extent, the beautiful dresses—with their ruffles cascading across the body and falling off shoulders, the palette of pale pink, the flower-strewn patterns, the pristine cotton, the tattered lace, and the frock-coated tailoring—speak for themselves. Everything about them in these times when every camera phone has a zoom lens can be examined in all their extraordinary detail, down to the finest knitted stitches, the flower-painted wooden clogs, and the couture-level embroidery. On the other hand, for all that the ethereal lightness, whip-smart tailoring, and elaborate designs communicated a new, relaxed, of-the-season relevance, they also carried the story of a London history that Burton wanted to make known.

The collection has McQueen DNA but it’s a Sarah Burton who create it.

John Galliano Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Galliano is a genie, there is no doubt about it. His creativity has thousend facets. This week we saw luxury and creativity of his Maison Margiela’s s/s 2016 prêt-à-porter collection . But here let us remember that John Galliano’s fashion house named Bill Gaytten as new creative director of Galliano’s eponymous Label… but it was a few years ago. So what?- will think you. So, it means that we don’t ( and didn’t see in last collections) see eccentric creations under John Galliano eponymous Label as we are waiting for and about he is famous for.

Anyway ,Galliano had come to represent British eccentricity at its wildest, Gaytten offered a variant that felt more fit to the lifestyle of his youthful target.But the initial order of business was to return to his roots, and those of the brand, by examining Britishness, seen through the kaleidoscope of its sartorial history. From tailoring to punk, from uniforms to underdressed, the staples of the genre were reinterpreted in gossamer thin fabric. All charming, but extra points went to blazers with sheer panels and parkas in mesh, perfectly cut and a testament to Gaytten’s talent in this field. Beading and delicate laces were paired with restraint. The lingerie overtone of many of the dresses was offset by the London energy that pulsated heavily from the runway.

Céline Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Céline unveiled spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection designed by Phoebe Philo.

The show opened with a series of white lingerie slip dresses and camisoles (it seems to be a trend for spring and summer) which arrived in silk and leather versions and trimmed with black lace. They had ironed-in creases as though they had been neatly folded and pulled straight out of a suitcase. Other pieces too had that same feeling, like a crinkled shirt dress that looked like it might have been slept in, but prettily so, and came grounded with a modern cowboy boot. From lingerie dressing the collection progressed into structured outerwear, plush white furs, and suiting-like plaids, before coming to a close with a leather dress with a knit mid-section worn over loose cream trousers.

One is sure – this season’s Céline collection is a lesson in contrasts

Emanuel Ungaro Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Fausto Puglisi unveiled his Emanuel Ungaro Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection today in Paris Fashion Week.

Great designers’ greatness is stamped on our memory by the signature codes they leave behind them. Hence, when other designers succeed the house’s founder, they face a challenge: a delicate wrestle between the codes they have signed up to inherit and the urge to express their own point of view. Their own codes and Puglisi has his code,in fact Fausto Puglisi chose to focus on a set of sweetly provocative floral macramé looks, all froth and of-that-era liberation touched with a softened space Age futurism.Impressively, Puglisi re-established a connection with the Swiss factory that made Ungaro’s ’60s pieces to create a wonderfully psychedelic lace macramé of ochre flowers and paisley petals used in his last capelet—teamed with matching thigh-highs and a long loose skirt. The netted-check that ran throughout the collection, even down to the weave of the pressed-foam ruffles that edged many of these Looks, A harder, more Puglisi-ish preoccupation—expressed itself in the ringlet bonding on black vinyl and hot pink skirts, and as suspension on floral-scattered bustiers. “A little bit bondage, maybe, but also in romantic attitude. This is not a collection for wallflowers or delicate petals—but for a woman in search of punchy, in-your-face prettiness, it will have allure.

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Kenzo unveiled Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection. designed by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, love a far-flung, unexpected destination for their Kenzo shows.

The modern global traveler, she comes and goes with ease ,just like the models on Kenzo’s spring runway, who were positioned on a series of platform blocks that gently motored out into the venue, assembling into a runway. It was a neat special effect, attention-catching but not so much that it outshined the collection of happy, summer clothes that could be on their way to or from a Destination Holiday.

Cropped tanks with an angled hem and a skinny T-shaped strap in the back paired with matching lean low-rider skirts in chevron-printed patchworks felt fresh. Some were layered over cutout maillots for a sexy swimwear look that was also reflected in cool cutout mesh bodysuits worn open and untucked over skirts and pants.

The accessories, such as belts with little wallets on them and patent gladiators with spongy shower-sandal insoles, made getting there comfortable and easy.