Designer Demna Gvasalia überrascht uns auch dieses mal, in seine Balenciaga Kollektion verbindet er viele Stoffe und Schnitte, wie Latex und Spandex, Seide und Leader.Er schafft der feinste Verbindung und führt das rebellische Spiel mit Fetisch und Fashion auf höchstem Niveau. Die gepolsterte Schultern von Maschulinen Jacken und enge Hosen und Jumpsuits in floralen Print lassen die Herzen von vielen Frauen höher schlagen. Wer ist Demna’s oder besser sagen, Balenciaga’s Women? Ist sie eine Verführerin? Die hoche Absätze von endlosen Stiefeln, die Latex Regenmanteln, Spandex und rote Nägeln – diese Looks lassen uns an Christobal Balenciaga denken. Gvasalia punktet auf Fetischismus in die Mode, aber was ist eigentlich die Mode, das ist doch ein Fetisch in sich selbst oder? Auch mit der Wahl von Schmuck für die Show überrasch Gvasalia seine Auditorium, er nimmt die Brosche und Halsketten aus Balenciaga Archiven und zeigt die in seinem Show. „Too much“ werdet Ihr fragen? Oder das ist eine tiefste Verbindung von „Gestern“ und „Heute“ und Hommage für Christobal Balenciaga?
Schon mit seinem Label Vetements schafte Demna Gvasalia bis ganz nach oben in Modische Olymp. Mittlerweile das ist die zweite Kollektion mit welche rebellische Kreativen Direktor von Balenciaga, uns begeistert. Seine Shows sind die höhst interessant und werden weltweit erwartet. In diese Saison schickt er nicht nur die beste Topmodels auf den Laufsteg aber auch die Newcomerinnen wie Radhika Nair and Shu Jing.
Lutz Huelle,german designer, famous in France more that in Germany, unveiled his spring 2017 collection yesterday, during Paris Fashion Week.The big news was the furthering of previous seasons’ trompe l’oeil layered denim. The silhouette was strong-shouldered and squared-off. Lutz is famous about his deconstructed design, and , there was deconstructed shirting in white and black but there was a new eastern influence that came through in the kimono-style wrapped jackets, or the mandarin collar of a camouflage topper piped in fuchsia. The one thing is sure, in next season german fashion scene will love Lutz Huelle’s collections as french trendsetters does.
In Balmain S/S 2017 collection Rousteing let colours talking. After the tawny desert tones and cargo greens of the opening numbers, he showed a jungle’s worth of brights: in solids, mismatched snakeskin prints, and graphic stripes. There were also a lot of knits. And that seemed strategic: They’re not only easier to wear than the label’s famous bandage dresses, but also kinder on the wallet—two factors that could count for a lot as the label pushes into new territories. Lightening up worked in his favor on a Missoni-esque crocheted caftan and skirt.For evening, he proposed long split-seam dresses with multicolor crystals and slinky chain mail dresses.
It was a Bouchra Jarrar’s first Lanvin show. She closed her own label to accept the creative directorship, and has done her research on the woman who founded the house, unearthing the fact that Jeanne Lanvin predated Coco Chanel and and all the other female couturiers of the 20’s and 30’s.What can we tell about new Lanvin, yes, new, because the incredible house-centric codes of Alber Elbaz’s tenure seemingly be brushed under the carpet and Lanvin is now starting on a new journey. Bouchra has brought those signatures to Lanvin and playing within the boundaries of „veiling and unveiling“, Bouchra Jarrar announced in the show notes that she was embarking on an ongoing narrative around „the exchange of masculinity and femininity.“ But it is not new for Jarrar. In many looks we can recognize the Bouchra’s previuos creations, which she did for her own label, for example she played with transparencies in her S/S 2016 haute couture collection. Jarrar’s MUST pieces were recognizable , there were biker jackets and gilets and the lond draped dresses which in her own collections always looked elegant and more luxurious. But we must give Bouchra Jarrar time, the world of ready-to-wear collections is a new land for her.