Katrantzou’s earliest collections, rich with dazzling trompe l’oeil, created one of the most distinctive design signatures of the past decade, so distinctive, in fact, that her efforts to move on have been dogged by that early success. With her spring/summer 2017 collection, Mary Katrantzou snapped back to own who she is: a great print designer, and a Greek one.“It’s funny, I never wanted to use classical Greek art, because being from there, it seemed too obvious,” she said with a shrug after her show. “But this time, I thought, ‘Why not?’She looked back to her childhood visit to the ancient palace of Knossos, on Crete, the center of the Minoan civilization. Mary Katrantzou transposed the profiles of Minoan goddesses onto the bodices of dresses and printed them onto shimmery chain-mail tunics.