Fashion

Balmain Spring/Summer 2017 : Balmain Army is back

| Syuzena Pitz
In Balmain S/S 2017 collection Rousteing let colours talking. After the tawny desert tones and cargo greens of the opening numbers, he showed a jungle’s worth of brights: in solids, mismatched snakeskin prints, and graphic stripes. There were also a lot of knits. And that seemed strategic: They’re not only easier to wear than the label’s famous bandage dresses, but also kinder on the wallet—two factors that could count for a lot as the label pushes into new territories. Lightening up worked in his favor on a Missoni-esque crocheted caftan and skirt.For evening, he proposed long split-seam dresses with multicolor crystals  and slinky chain mail dresses.
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Lanvin Spring/Summer 2017 : Bouchra Jarrar’s show at the heart of Paris and the new Lanvin interpretation.

| Syuzena Pitz
It was a Bouchra Jarrar’s  first  Lanvin show. She closed her own label to accept the creative directorship, and has done her research on the woman who founded the house, unearthing the fact that Jeanne Lanvin predated Coco Chanel and and all the other female couturiers of the 20’s and 30’s.What can we tell about new Lanvin, yes, new, because   the incredible house-centric codes of Alber Elbaz’s tenure seemingly be brushed under the carpet and Lanvin is now starting on a new journey. Bouchra has brought those signatures to Lanvin and playing within the boundaries of „veiling and unveiling“, Bouchra Jarrar announced in the show notes that she was embarking on an ongoing narrative around „the exchange of masculinity and femininity.“  But it is not new for Jarrar. In many looks we can recognize the Bouchra’s  previuos creations, which she did for her own label, for example she played with transparencies in her S/S 2016 haute couture collection.  Jarrar’s MUST pieces were  recognizable , there were  biker jackets and gilets and the lond draped dresses which in her own collections always looked elegant and more luxurious. But we must give Bouchra Jarrar time, the world of ready-to-wear collections is a new land for her.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2017 collection
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Maison Margiela S/S 2017 : grandios mix up of clothes in way we never see before.

| Syuzena Pitz
English eccentricity of John Galliano goes through his Margiela SS 17 collection.Deconstruction and re-construction, creativity with the eye on the steetwear- all this showed us  Galliano yesterday. The Spring/Summer 2017  is a grandios mixing up of everyday clothes in ways we’ve never seen before.Who were these figures with their earpieces and headsets, backpacks and yoga mats  wearing Lucite-heeled clogs, were they humanoid space creatures from the future? Are they going to meditate on the present and future?Who said that Art, Fashion and Creativity  should always be easy to understand? It was a great show and you can be sure that all pieces taken apart and hanging in a store or showing in online retailers, would appear just as wearable items which every women simply MUSTHAVE in her wardrobe next summer.

 

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Saint Laurent S/S 2017 : Anthony Vaccarello’s debut collection for SL

| Syuzena Pitz
Shall we be modest as Anthony Vaccarello was?  “It’s a work in progress,” he said at a preview—a modest, realistic statement from  designer.
The show review will be postet later. See the whole collection now.

 

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Dolce&Gabbana S/S 2017 : Pasta a pomodoro and couture dresses.

| Syuzena Pitz
The Dolce & Gabbana Spring ready-to-wear show was a good vantage point for observing how the old-fashioned runway system is being questioned—pushed by digital technology to the brink of falling apart.Here to say that Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce were  the first enthusiasts of the changing media – live-streaming, bloggers on front row-while also becoming pioneers of the excessively luxuriant “experiential” travel habit and this  has now taken over the summer schedule.Anyway, they have been Italian fashion’s best advocates for bringing the outside in  and in outside- thanks to the invention of mobile phone cameras, all this details, movement, history, and exuberance can be captured, shared and treasured by all. But back to their spring/summer collection.This was a traditional show. After the real dancers, came the models, walking single file, not much smiling. The looks are demonstrated all of the values of the „Italianate“ house, the prints on the dresses , like a pasta, seafood, gelato and tomatos ( pomodori pelati)  and same time the incredible embellishment of the sequined, toy soldier glittering military jackets.

 

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