John Galliano presented his Fall 2016 collection for Maison Margielatoday during Paris Fashion Week. The show was held in a white space constructed within the Grand Palais. This time around there were no creeping models and no boys in dresses, just mixed and matched ready-to-wear to please the Margiela customer. Spliced together thin knits, black suiting, and wearable, military-inflected outwear made up a bulk of the collection.
Philip Plein’s fall/winter 2016 show yesterday ( Milan Fashion Week ) has started one hour later and took place in an extreme venue .Featured artist- semi-controversial Performer Chris Brown. Come on, it’sPlein. The mood of this show was a mash-up of the Storm Troopers’ outfits from Star Wars and Mad Max, all this with a lot of fur coats. Three massive semi-trailers reversed into the room. On the open backs of them were the models, who clung to stainless-steel frames not unlike Plein’s early-career furniture pieces. They marched out wearing a collection of paneled jumpsuits -some of them with sharp upturned shoulders. There were also long black dresses with body-stockinged slashes at the hip, and long bombers and bikers, some decorated with metallic reliefs of Marvel superheroes over very micro dresses . Too much fur-hooded parkas, sneakers with sawtooth soles and Swarovski sparkle, and a wide-legged pantsuit with crystal details on the back were a few other pieces visible through strobe and gloom. Philipp Plein said backstage: “Everyone at the moment is going on a ’70s mood. But I don’t want to be a follower; I want to do things the way I like to do. And I am influenced by modern street style, and by hip-hop. That’s what I love.” At the end another truck reversed in with Brown, who delivered a blink-and-you-missed it performance .This was not the greatest show in the Plein career but a middling Plein show is still more entertaining than many others which we’ve seen in Milan last days.
It is safe to say that sexiness is back at Versace, but in keeping with the hard-core, military-womenspower mood Donatella Versaceset out for spring/summer 2016 season—Fall 2016 is a different, more various kind of sexy, embracing models of a range of shapes and ages. “I love mixing the cool girls with the reality girls,” Donatella said backstage. “It’s about a woman’s power—for every kind of woman!“
For fall 2016 season, again, Donatella Versace has paid attention to daywear, starting with black leather-trimmed suits and belted coats, moving into biker-jacketed tailoring, taut ski-pants, and a section of sporty crosshatched knit dresses, and one big chunky sweater in an abstracted alpine pattern . Then came the prints, some of them consisting of baroque curlicues designed byGianni Versaceand then remaked on the computer.There were so much dark blue, ice-blue, coral,yellow ,wavy and stretched lines that drew the eye so much as the general sense of energy radiated by this new, more inclusive and individualistic band of Versace models. And there were , again , many long legs on show, and a comeback for the power of dressing in black.