Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week ,on September 20,2015.

Mary Katrantzou quite contrary mixed the cosmic and chaos for her Spring/Summer collection that’s inspiration was “constructed to confuse.” Staged in the Granary Building, home to Central Saint Martins, the floor was covered in crunching sticky blue plastic against an imposing backdrop of tilting mirrors, giving a distorted view of the scene and its voyeurs. From the chaos of behind to the serenity on the runway, ethereal sequin covered chiffon dresses were strewn with intricate prints that looked like a contemporary twist of Giotto’s frescos and twinkling night skies.

Ribbon ties, metallic inserts, and piping in glowing gem colors mixed with candlelight complimenting shades, and a micro-fine metallic quilt effect that shifted across a million shades with each step. Floral crinkle sleeves contrasted with sequins, patchworks of print, colors and textures that all balanced on floral and snakeskin dipped boots with a metallic telescope-like heel.The collection closed with celestial block colors, burgundy with red, midnight with aqua blue, and black with color pattern ruffles that fluttered like a bustle as light as pollen in the wind in a show as beautiful as it was bewitching, showcasing an extraordinary aesthetic journey.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Can you reasonably rage against the machine when you are a highly profitable cog in it? This is an obvious paradox inherent in Dame Vivienne Westwood’s policy of using her shows as a podium from which to preach about the iniquities of mass consumerism and fossil fuel dependence.

Held in a basement space grippingly advertised outside as an “Alien Sex Club,” the runway was overlooked by a balcony on which gathered a band of paper-crowned model/protestors holding banners hostile to politicians and shale gas extraction.

The most piquant contradiction in this show was how incompatible the collection seemed with the rhetoric around it. Because while the styling was absolutely maverick—all smeared robber-mask eyes and sleep-in-a-tree hair—there is no other way to describe the clothes only with the word :conservative!

Preen Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Sunday morning, time to start with Preen: Hard and soft, floral frills with sports edge, lame and laces, micro-floral prints ,multitude of metallic overlays, ruffles, sweeping maxis and cut-away bandage straps

Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection # Versuscalling desisgned by Anthony Vaccarello was shown in London Fashion Week, September 19,2015

With Anthony Vaccarello as creative director, Donatella Versace has turned Versus into a show-now, buy-now and wear-tomorrow collection,

Vacarello is a fluent new-generation-channeler of the pulse of Versace. He gets the house codes such the lion-head medallions, the legginess, the body-conscious cutout-and-drape shapes, the tailoring.

Erin Wasson, Jamie Bochert, Lily Donaldson, and Malaika Firth led the roll call of models in sharp black cuts, bomber jackets, studded leather, and “Versus” silver stamped disc belts and shoes. Tuxedo jackets were worn with attitude as dresses, the boys were as pretty as the girls, and slithers of satins, studded medusa heads, and curved button detail punched the spirit of Versus Versace into a new season. Black on black, leopard print silk scarves that wafted into skirts, asymmetric hemlines, catsuits, and long tunics were worn over trousers, printed denims, and inky black floral prints.

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown London Fashion Week, September 19,2015.

In a statement, the designer reminisced about his first experiences of Soho, just after he moved to London, describing it as some sort of wayward utopia. „It was like falling down a rabbit hole. There were such feelings of euphoria, of danger, and of possibility. I guess that’s what this collection is about. A place where you feel like anything can happen.“
This collection is about dreams, hopes and the determination to do it your way. Pugh might have been to Paris in search of the trappings of success but to yesterday evening the street wasn’t paved with gold, it was paved with pennies. Big dreams don’t need a lot. They just need a big heart, a big smile and an even bigger imagination. Pugh has all three. His talent shone through yesterday evening, as avant-garde mastermind and as clairvoyant. His theatrical design background saw him pump up the energy, re-injecting life back into the belief systems around what makes London proud to be London. This city has a direct access to the authentic world of punk and counter culture like no other.