Versace Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Milan Fashion Week

26/09/201526/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Donatella Versace was shown her Versace Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection in Milan Fashion Week, at 25 September 2015. Donatella Versace celebrates the women and she described The Versace Woman before the Show:

“She’s a very real woman,” said Donatella , “She works, travels around, she has to be perfect all the time… she’s not a young girl. But she has to take on an attitude of strength.”

If you don’t see the live stream i’ll tell you about the show and i refer you the soundtrack: It was not just an added-on musical theme, but the massively inclusive, confidence-generating “Transition” by Violet .You’ll have to listen to it, it’s a call to all women to stop listening to our inner demons and outer detractors, and just get rid of everything which stops us from doing what we really want. Donatella Versace did it, she addressed all that by showing a collection which never ditched the beloved character of her family’s house, but concentrated mostly on varying shades of daywear, shown on an inclusive cast of characters.

Utility jackets in khaki and desert sand that made for little belted dresses, serious stealth legs on display with even more stealth and serious sandals – platforms with rubberised soles, safety buckles and a steep, steep heel – beneath; little chiffon torn dresses of camouflage combinations in neon orange, jungle green, purple and black; glossy backpacks; tie-handle scrunched bags; trailing cuffs on sheer chiffon gowns; tough jackets patched with animal print; The Versace House print gone wild in punchy green camouflage tailored suits with slouchy boy-cut pants, collaged into knits and sweatshirts .
Waist definition via a neon belt was key, as was the Versace military jacket – be it a bomber, be it a blazer, a blouson, cropped or not. It was sharp, it was bright, it was slits to the thigh on slinky little evening dresses.

It would not be Versace without an injection of sexiness—a quality which has been so out of fashion recently that many designers appear terrified of it. This time, Donatella Versace did show some of the requisite chiffon, fluttery, spilt-to-the-thigh gowns.. Whatever forces Donatella Versace was fighting to reach this new point of clarity, she won.

Versace Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection will be a Happening, it was a Happening from the first moments of the Show!

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Can you reasonably rage against the machine when you are a highly profitable cog in it? This is an obvious paradox inherent in Dame Vivienne Westwood’s policy of using her shows as a podium from which to preach about the iniquities of mass consumerism and fossil fuel dependence.

Held in a basement space grippingly advertised outside as an “Alien Sex Club,” the runway was overlooked by a balcony on which gathered a band of paper-crowned model/protestors holding banners hostile to politicians and shale gas extraction.

The most piquant contradiction in this show was how incompatible the collection seemed with the rhetoric around it. Because while the styling was absolutely maverick—all smeared robber-mask eyes and sleep-in-a-tree hair—there is no other way to describe the clothes only with the word :conservative!

Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection # Versuscalling desisgned by Anthony Vaccarello was shown in London Fashion Week, September 19,2015

With Anthony Vaccarello as creative director, Donatella Versace has turned Versus into a show-now, buy-now and wear-tomorrow collection,

Vacarello is a fluent new-generation-channeler of the pulse of Versace. He gets the house codes such the lion-head medallions, the legginess, the body-conscious cutout-and-drape shapes, the tailoring.

Erin Wasson, Jamie Bochert, Lily Donaldson, and Malaika Firth led the roll call of models in sharp black cuts, bomber jackets, studded leather, and “Versus” silver stamped disc belts and shoes. Tuxedo jackets were worn with attitude as dresses, the boys were as pretty as the girls, and slithers of satins, studded medusa heads, and curved button detail punched the spirit of Versus Versace into a new season. Black on black, leopard print silk scarves that wafted into skirts, asymmetric hemlines, catsuits, and long tunics were worn over trousers, printed denims, and inky black floral prints.

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown London Fashion Week, September 19,2015.

In a statement, the designer reminisced about his first experiences of Soho, just after he moved to London, describing it as some sort of wayward utopia. „It was like falling down a rabbit hole. There were such feelings of euphoria, of danger, and of possibility. I guess that’s what this collection is about. A place where you feel like anything can happen.“
This collection is about dreams, hopes and the determination to do it your way. Pugh might have been to Paris in search of the trappings of success but to yesterday evening the street wasn’t paved with gold, it was paved with pennies. Big dreams don’t need a lot. They just need a big heart, a big smile and an even bigger imagination. Pugh has all three. His talent shone through yesterday evening, as avant-garde mastermind and as clairvoyant. His theatrical design background saw him pump up the energy, re-injecting life back into the belief systems around what makes London proud to be London. This city has a direct access to the authentic world of punk and counter culture like no other.

Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

20/09/201520/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, on September 19,2015.

Japan is the central theme to the collection she showed in London yesterday.

Rocha’s collection was full of exciting texture and contrast, as in the bondagelike woven ropes that crisscrossed her gossamer dresses with their puff sleeves and cloqué circle skirts; the thick and slightly menacing strips of fabric that tied at the throats of floral-print dresses, and the innocent looking ribbons that bound arms to the bodies of languid, Empire-style dresses, restricting models movements.

The hard and soft contrast came in the form of spongy neoprene dresses. They were short, boxy and tailored, with patch pockets and oversize sculpted bows planted on shoulders and hips. The linear geometry of bamboo forests, meanwhile, came through in sheer olive dresses with a crosshatch pattern, and resembled the blurred image on her show Invitation.