Guillaume Henry has the goodwill of the fashion world. He gave Garven in 2009 a global profile and a distinctive look. Women responded to Carven’s gamine sensibility. Yesterday’s show was Henry’s second for Nina Ricci, but he hasn’t yet found his footing. It’s an issue more of tone than execution, though both play a part. His backstage mood board was pinned with pictures of Romy Schneider in the 1971 film Max et les Ferrailleurs, and images of ’90s models like Kate Moss, Ktisten McMenamy and Nadja Auermann .“I’d love men to fall in love with the Nina Ricci woman,” he said.
It looks as if Henry has done away with the precious girly femininity that the Nina Ricci house had become known for and in its stead decided what the world really needed was a seductress. A woman not afraid to wear a sheer green or pink silk top that leaves perky breasts exposed to the elements – taunting those around her to dare to make a remark. A woman who can wear a glossy black apron with straps out of rhinestones and make the matronly garment look sexy. A woman that likes minimalistic clothing, with just a bit of undulating feather embellishment from time to time, basically because it can be easily slipped off at a moment’s notice.The sultry boudoir vibe of the show was a clever way for Henry to go. And overall he succeeded in his new Approach.