Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Spanish fashion house Loewe with creativ director Jonathan Anderson  at the helm opens the fourth day of #PFW unveiling their spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection.

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Chloé Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

Chloé threw something of a curveball today,01. October 2015. Instead of the wistful silhouettes  came tracksuits, sporting stripes and carnival colours referencing a different dimension of the 70ies, the decade the house continues to reinvent so well. It’s not what you would immediately associate with the romantic Chloé girl, but as Clare Waight Keller explained after the show, this was about finding a new optimism.The usual lace slips were grounded with jogging bottoms; the signature cheesecloth maxi-dresses came not in cornflower blue and toffee hues but in sherbet shades; and bootcuts were replaced by easy, low-slung harem pants. It was relaxed and easy, as though Chloé’s girl was a girl on her gap year . Chloé unveiled us very youthful,really sophisticated high summer collection

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Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection designed by John Galliano – Paris Fashion Week

John Galliano had unveiled us his second ready-to-wear collection  for Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano proposed us chic and luxuriuos looks  because recycling and deconstruction can still be done so authentically,so perfect ans also be commercial, especially when it will be done by the genie as John Galliano is.
Let us speak about the show and  about „new“ Galliano :  also if he didn’t come out physically, this show was a kind of coming out. It was a re-emergence of an enigma. Spring/Summer 2016 brings us one step closer to the Galliano we knew in the early days – going full throttle, full of ideas and enjoying the joie de vivre of it all. In short, this show was near incredible. The first exits poured out onto the catwalk. Previous collections at Maison Margiela have seen Galliano engage with a bag lady kind of intellect  Today’s version of events evoked down and out heiress. In the first part the ornate crystal jewellery was bricolaged onto the tops of ears and pinned in swathes across  knee-lenth coats and  slightly padded and roomy 1950s-style gowns. Paris shoes leaned back in an arched Versaille style, whilst fishnet tights were pulled over the entire shoe, and added to the unhinged styling.
There were also men on the womenswear runway , which is a new thing for the re-launched house. This is proof that the label wants to symbiotically promote dual narratives. Furthermore, due to some of the men wearing dresses, it was a signifier of the house . The mood of the designer’s avant-garde show was captured perfectly by its diverse, gender-fluid cast. While girls like Paula Galecka,Ysaunny Brito and Sora Choi, reflected a youthful, almost innocent ideal of beauty, models Maarten Convens, Vincent Beier, Carl Hjelm Sandqvist, and Théo Bianconi presented a captivating androgyny.
The final part of the show looked East for inspiration as traditional Geisha garb was transformed by Galliano into something stiffer and more structured than the original silk Kimonos. Where purses replaced obi bows, and kitten heels with pronounced posteriors were worn instead of traditional geta sandals. The result was oddly lovely and completely apart from anything else currently happening in fashion.
As ever Galliano’s hand could be seen in all. Making treasured pieces, each of which appear individual, has been his marker long before Margiela but it is one that’s flourishing as he continues to re-establish himself and the house

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Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2015-2016 – Collection inspired by rose.

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2015-2016 ready-to-wear collection.
It has all the McQueen ingredients: drama, royalty, revolution, gothic beauty and Sarah Burton’s latest collection ticked all of the above and then some.
Alexander McQueen fall winter 2015/2016 collection is inspired by rose.
On the catwalk  Burton offered up the purest distillation of what she called „the spirit of the rose,“ a flower that begins with a tight bud that opens into a lush bloom and then eventually collapses back onto itself in gorgeous decay.
Sarah Burton explained:“I was thinking about the female form, and some pictures David Sims took of roses,” ….. “There’s such beauty in all stages of the life of a rose. So there’s this sense of a woman, who becomes slightly unraveled as she goes along and her clothing starts peeling away. . . .”

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Back to Fashion: The Genius of John Galliano

It was an awesome spectacular show on runway, the John Galliano’s show,  one model clutched her paper-bag purse like it was the most precious thing, another wore  orange rubber gloves and hairy shoes but same time the collection demonstrated range and finesse.
John Galliano’s first prét-á´-porter collection for Maison Margiela  was a winner, full of personality of Genius of John Galliano.

It’s simply a HIT!