John Galliano Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Galliano is a genie, there is no doubt about it. His creativity has thousend facets. This week we saw luxury and creativity of his Maison Margiela’s s/s 2016 prêt-à-porter collection . But here let us remember that John Galliano’s fashion house named Bill Gaytten as new creative director of Galliano’s eponymous Label… but it was a few years ago. So what?- will think you. So, it means that we don’t ( and didn’t see in last collections) see eccentric creations under John Galliano eponymous Label as we are waiting for and about he is famous for.

Anyway ,Galliano had come to represent British eccentricity at its wildest, Gaytten offered a variant that felt more fit to the lifestyle of his youthful target.But the initial order of business was to return to his roots, and those of the brand, by examining Britishness, seen through the kaleidoscope of its sartorial history. From tailoring to punk, from uniforms to underdressed, the staples of the genre were reinterpreted in gossamer thin fabric. All charming, but extra points went to blazers with sheer panels and parkas in mesh, perfectly cut and a testament to Gaytten’s talent in this field. Beading and delicate laces were paired with restraint. The lingerie overtone of many of the dresses was offset by the London energy that pulsated heavily from the runway.

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection designed by John Galliano – Paris Fashion Week

30/09/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

John Galliano had unveiled us his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano proposed us chic and luxuriuos looks because recycling and deconstruction can still be done so authentically,so perfect ans also be commercial, especially when it will be done by the genie as John Galliano is.

Let us speak about the show and about „new“ Galliano : also if he didn’t come out physically, this show was a kind of coming out. It was a re-emergence of an enigma. Spring/Summer 2016 brings us one step closer to the Galliano we knew in the early days – going full throttle, full of ideas and enjoying the joie de vivre of it all. In short, this show was near incredible. The first exits poured out onto the catwalk. Previous collections at Maison Margiela have seen Galliano engage with a bag lady kind of intellect Today’s version of events evoked down and out heiress. In the first part the ornate crystal jewellery was bricolaged onto the tops of ears and pinned in swathes across knee-lenth coats and slightly padded and roomy 1950s-style gowns. Paris shoes leaned back in an arched Versaille style, whilst fishnet tights were pulled over the entire shoe, and added to the unhinged styling.

There were also men on the womenswear runway , which is a new thing for the re-launched house. This is proof that the label wants to symbiotically promote dual narratives. Furthermore, due to some of the men wearing dresses, it was a signifier of the house . The mood of the designer’s avant-garde show was captured perfectly by its diverse, gender-fluid cast. While girls like Paula Galecka,Ysaunny Brito and Sora Choi, reflected a youthful, almost innocent ideal of beauty, models Maarten Convens, Vincent Beier, Carl Hjelm Sandqvist, and Théo Bianconi presented a captivating androgyny.

The final part of the show looked East for inspiration as traditional Geisha garb was transformed by Galliano into something stiffer and more structured than the original silk Kimonos. Where purses replaced obi bows, and kitten heels with pronounced posteriors were worn instead of traditional geta sandals. The result was oddly lovely and completely apart from anything else currently happening in fashion.

As ever Galliano’s hand could be seen in all. Making treasured pieces, each of which appear individual, has been his marker long before Margiela but it is one that’s flourishing as he continues to re-establish himself and the house