Atelier Versace Spring/Summer 2016 -Haute Couture Week

| Syuzena Pitz
Paris, the  world capital of Fashion Business. Thom Browne „closed  the runways“ of Menswear Week and left the Scene for most attendet Fashion Events  – Haute Couture Week in Paris.
Donatella Versace unvelied us Atelier Versace spring/summer 2016 haute couture collection. and there are three things you can always expect at a Versace show: superstars, supermodels, and super-sexy dresses. Donatella Versace’s Couture show delivered on all fronts, featuring sporty suiting, revealing gowns, and enough famous models to make a fashion fan’s head spin. 

 

 

Balmain menswear Fall-Winter 2016-2017

| Syuzena Pitz
Balmain fall/winter 2016 collection  is all  about roaming free across various lands. Rousteing was citing the mindset and styles of the adventurers, soldiers and scientists who, in the past, went off exploring the globe before returning to Paris and delighting natives with their tales and finds. His show notes talked of how this eagerness to embrace a diversity of creations, cultures and ideas has continued over generations and centuries. Whether or not you like his approach or designs, it must be acknowledged that he has broken down barriers. He proudly champions black Beauty, he builds clothes for a body shape that until now hasn’t got a look in in fashion given the obsession with teenage white girls. He casts women and men from all over the world-from Lucky Blue Smith and Jon Kortajarena to Marlon Teixeira and Sean O’Pry, Rousteing brought together an all-star line-up for his Balmain menswear .Rousteing is the ultimate example of a 2016 designer – showy, sexy, a social media celebrity. He may breakdown the barriers that used to exist between the celebrity world and the fashion world. Balmain Men looked rugged and macho, women sensual and trussed-up. The former were clad in military inspired pieces such as tight leathers, waist belts, decorated waistcoats and riding boots alongside bejewelled frock jackets that could have been borrowed from the aristocracy. When viewing the wardrobe of the women, one wondered if Rousteing is staking a claim to get Balmain back on the couture schedule, such was the intensity of that beading.

 

Valentino menswear Fall/Winter 2016-2017

| Syuzena Pitz
Valentino fall/winter 2016-2017 collection designed by duo Maria Grazia Chiuri  and Pierpaolo Piccioli  is for  a man who lives in luxury, in luxury of freedom to travels around the world, accumulate a wealth of life experience and Valentino’s men wardrobe seems to  be based on the diverse experiences and passions of life. You can see the moodboard of the collection the designers  references: a young Pasolini, a Kerouac,  William Burroughs  Edward Curtis’s Indian warriors, a pensive John Lennon, an equally moody Steven Morrissey.The show has began with black tailoring . The camel coats matched with black suits, Then came hopsack linens, a string of glorious tribal-inflected Moment,  which had something similar with womens collection for this summer, S/S 2016) : star appliques, embroidery Navaho suedes, a tie-dyed cape, beaded and fringed denim pieces. Versions of Joy Division’s „Love With Tear Us Apart“ and The Smith’s „There is a Light that Never Goes Out“ filled the show space. It was fabulous. It is fabulous!

 

Gucci „Poetic Reactivation“ menswear collection

| Syuzena Pitz
Alessandro Michele unveiled Gucci menswear fall/winter 2016-2017 collection.
Under Michele’s tenure, Gucci  started to change a complete look of their customers. Gucci these days is genderless, seasonless, formal and casual mixed. Gucci men became an androgynous, free, eclectic and , he is not a teen anymore,Gucci men became a boy in a state of identity flux, alive. He was clad in Snoopy t-shirts, a teddy-bear cardigan and little caps and hats with animal details and tassels dangling by the ears . The approach to age is very intiguing because one can imagine these clothes on a grandma as much as a teen boy, a young girl as much as a grown man. Age is the ultimate taboo in fashion -and in our society- and  Michele is pioneering by playing with it. That sense of generation tourism fits with the title of the collection – Poetic Reactivation. Michele is offering not invention but reinvention and revival.This was about discovering items from the past, and exploring how they feel contemporary or relevant to now, and in turn how a new generation or fresh eye can see new meaning in them. It’s simply different. A different philosophy. But it’s about the luxuryt because the  freedom and choice is true luxury a new way of looking at things – it’s a Poetic Reactivation.

 

 

Versace menswear fall/winter 2016-2017

| Syuzena Pitz
Versace unveiled  menswear fall/winter 2016 collection. Milan Fashion Week.