Hermes Fall/Winter 2016-2017

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Hermés –  house which represents the core of the French Establishment.The House which rooted in timeless luxury. It is third Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski collection since becoming the creative director of the most luxurious French Maison. In these disturbed and disturbing times the bourgeois instincts are to be as quiet and inconspicuous as possible that’s why ,maybe, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski  has opted for a soft tone of voice at Hermès.

 

 

Iris van Herpen Fall/Winter 2016-2017 #Paris

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There’s been a lot of talk about shaking up the fashion show system this month, but it wasn’t until the penultimate day of the Paris collections that anyone did something that felt truly new except dutsch designer Iris van Herpen  who presented her fall/winter 2016 collection  on the tableau vivant in which models performed in front of giant optical light screens.  The screens acted as  mirror and window, reflecting a doubled image that shifted depending on the model’s position and the viewer’s point of view.These runway pictures fail to convey the installation’s mesmerizing effect, however they do illustrate that Van Herpen has made efforts to increase the wearability of her clothes. The silhouettes are quite short and perched on almost un-walkable heels, but they’re all lined and discrete, a necessary change from last season’s. Otherwise, she’s as experimental as ever. Two dresses were made using 3-D printers  and a few others, created in collaboration with the architect Philip Beesley, combined laser-cut hexagonal discs with plastic tubing like new-fashioned chain-mail armor. It was ready-to-wear as sculpture. It was a fascination of future which Iris van Herpen has made yesterday on the parisian runway.

 

Chanel Fall/Winter 2016-2017 #Paris

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Karl Lagerfeld’s Show is the most attended Event during every Fashion Week. What could Karl Lagerfeld possibly do next to top the Chanel airport, the casino, the supermarket, the art fair, the Zen garden or the Roman movie set? But Lagerfeld has thousend ideas and for the Fall 2016 Chanel Show he had choosed a Non-Set set – it is the way collections were shown to clients in couture houses years and years ago, way before catwalks were invented—it was classic ,it was as a reminder of Chanel’s heritage. But collection was a kind of „Fashion democraticy“ in sense that there were about 100 Looks and Lagerfeld has offered  something for everyone. He was very taken with a new skirt option, lean and long but zipping at the side.  Paired with a zipped jacket, it offered a casual update on the classic tweed suit, particularly in knitghtwear.Casual look- this was a key element in the collection – in  the  way how sweaters were tied, scarves draped, fingerless mitts scrunched and tops slid off shoulders .And it was a return of  the Chanel pearl necklace.  In other words it was a classic Chanel which has also speaking to a trend of the Moment.  Karl Lagerfeld has made one more Top collection, for every woman- for the woman who want to look casual but chic, elegant and be trendy.

 

 

Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-17 or

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Was it the beginning of La Maison Yves Saint Laurent– a new, or reconstituted, haute couture house?  Or Was it Hedi Slimane’s farewell at Saint Laurent? ( Today we know  that it was last Show Slimane did for Saint Laurent) Hedi Slimane’s show was a full-on shock: a collection which pushed the ’80s shoulder to a pinnacle of upstanding exaggeration, drove glittery hemlines up, plunged necklines, belted waists with flourishing side-bows, poufed skirts, clad legs in sheer black tights, and put feet into stiletto pumps. There was an homage toYves Saint Laurent in every look, yet the collection was just as uncompromisingly faithful to the ultra-ultra-skinny youth aesthetic which Hedi Slimane has pushed in fashion for his whole career.This show was held in a beautiful 18th-century house on the Rue de l’Université, and conducted in bright lighting as models filed out—precisely in the style which was standard in old haute couture houses until the 1980s. The numbers of the outfits were even called out as each girl appeared, yet there was nothing satirical or ironic in the presentation. At that proximity, the quality of the clothes can’t be faked—and it was impeccable. From the smoothly fine fit of the leather dresses to the raven-wing sequins, the black ostrich coat with the pink- and turquoise-painted tips, and the extraordinary black columns and flounced tiers of the evening dresses, this collection proved that Slimane can cut it and fit it with the best.

 

 

 

 

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2016-2017 : Demna Gvasalia’s debut collection

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Fashion world – the Fashion industry- because everyone of us make a part of the biggest industry -Fashion- has waited of Balenciaga show. The collection you are going to see was created by Demna Gvasalia from Vetements,  a new artistic director of historical Maison Balenciaga. What from Christóbal Balenciaga’s  Archives can be relevant for a modern woman?  Cristóbal Balenciaga  was about the tailoring  and that was a start point of Demna Gvasalia’s   debut collection :  the kind of tailoring which was used by Gvasalia must be  the elegance  nowadays,- „In a 360-degree way“  said Gvasalia .The coats and jackets were  created by the forward-leaning technical cut , the whoosh of volume in the fronts of skirts, and the inward-angled stiletto heels. But who is a Demna Gvasalia’s -New Balenciaga woman-or women because there were many characters on the runway – so there were the women who cares about Fashion of today ( and it not means to care about dressing well).How this collection was borned : “I started by making a list of garments, which is what we do at Vetements. Like the shirt, the coat, the trench coat, the aviator, the floral dress, the sweater. Then we drape—I never do sketches,” said Gvasalia  “And then we ask ourselves: Friends would like to wear it? We asked Eliza, the girl with the glasses, who closed the Vetements show, to open Balenciaga. And she said, ‘Oh, a business suit! I like this!“   Designer Demna Gvasalia is the Person of the Day, he was famous yet about his Vetements and yesterday, with his Balenciaga’s debut collection he took his place in the history of Fashion (imagine- it is reality!)  But the Fashion of today is not only Gvasalia’s Vetements or „New“ Balenciaga, we have an opportunity , we have many Fashion Houses- talented designers and this gives us possibility to choose. Gvasalia’s Balenciaga could be a hit of the Paris Fashion Week for one time or for many seasons, the revenue will show us if the „New“ Balenciaga woman is ready to wear this creations daily.

 

Photo credits : nowfashion.com/Guillaume Roujas