John Galliano had unveiled us his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano proposed us chic and luxuriuos looks because recycling and deconstruction can still be done so authentically,so perfect ans also be commercial, especially when it will be done by the genie as John Galliano is.
Let us speak about the show and about „new“ Galliano : also if he didn’t come out physically, this show was a kind of coming out. It was a re-emergence of an enigma. Spring/Summer 2016 brings us one step closer to the Galliano we knew in the early days – going full throttle, full of ideas and enjoying the joie de vivre of it all. In short, this show was near incredible. The first exits poured out onto the catwalk. Previous collections at Maison Margiela have seen Galliano engage with a bag lady kind of intellect Today’s version of events evoked down and out heiress. In the first part the ornate crystal jewellery was bricolaged onto the tops of ears and pinned in swathes across knee-lenth coats and slightly padded and roomy 1950s-style gowns. Paris shoes leaned back in an arched Versaille style, whilst fishnet tights were pulled over the entire shoe, and added to the unhinged styling.
There were also men on the womenswear runway , which is a new thing for the re-launched house. This is proof that the label wants to symbiotically promote dual narratives. Furthermore, due to some of the men wearing dresses, it was a signifier of the house . The mood of the designer’s avant-garde show was captured perfectly by its diverse, gender-fluid cast. While girls like Paula Galecka,Ysaunny Brito and Sora Choi, reflected a youthful, almost innocent ideal of beauty, models Maarten Convens, Vincent Beier, Carl Hjelm Sandqvist, and Théo Bianconi presented a captivating androgyny.
The final part of the show looked East for inspiration as traditional Geisha garb was transformed by Galliano into something stiffer and more structured than the original silk Kimonos. Where purses replaced obi bows, and kitten heels with pronounced posteriors were worn instead of traditional geta sandals. The result was oddly lovely and completely apart from anything else currently happening in fashion.
As ever Galliano’s hand could be seen in all. Making treasured pieces, each of which appear individual, has been his marker long before Margiela but it is one that’s flourishing as he continues to re-establish himself and the house
Arrivederci Milan Fashion Week,!Bonjour Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2016. Now that we’ve seen all the wonderful shows and presentations that took place throughout the Italian fashion capital, we’ll listed our favorite fashionable showcases from the Paris catwalks.
For a spring season, there’s been remarkably little heat on the runway. There was one more or less sexless show after another, then along comes Anthony Vaccarello.
Anthony Vaccarello, belgian-Italian designer, who is also the creative director of the Versus Versace, kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a spring-summer 2016 collection that showed plenty of skin without missing the fashion element. To that end, he made a big push into denim, the entry-level price-point item that can really goose a brand’s bottom line. High-waisted styles, one accessorized with a denim belt that grazed the rib cage, will be about as forgiving as his hip-high slits, but there were loose-fitting boyfriend jeans in the mix that will appeal to a broader swath of body types.
Edie Campbell opened Anthony Vaccarello’s spring show in an Army green canvas jacket, its pert collar turned up, and matching wrap miniskirt. Cropped jackets had a vaguely military vibe, and mini kilts, fastened with skinny black-leather straps, deliberately didn’t close all the way, leaving a panel of flesh for all to see. Vaccarello introduced pop art inspired tunics and tanks featuring imagery of Anja Rubik decorated with colorful studs. Asymmetric hems and plunging necklines added even more sex appeal to the spring outing. He made a big push into denim, the entry-level price-point item that can really goose a brand’s bottom line. High-waisted styles, one accessorized with a denim belt that grazed the rib cage, will be about as forgiving as his hip-high slits, but there were loose-fitting boyfriend jeans in the mix that will appeal to a broader swath of body types.
Vaccarello also put his first bags on the runway. The gold detailing on a pair of cross-body styles echoed the hardware that accented this collection’s strong military-influenced tailoring and its drapey jersey numbers.
Back to collections for fall&winter seasons. Paris Fashion Week, March 10 ,2015.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2015-2016 pret-a-porter collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
A lot of us will remember this Show about Derek Zoolander and Hansel, aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson,the both came at the tail end of the Valentino Show ,do you remember it?
Chiuri and Piccioli go to their Italian origins for inspiration. For Fall they looked at Emilie Flöge and Celia Birtwell, two women who were both artists and muses (Flöge to Gustav Klimt, and Birtwell to her husband, the designer Ossie Clark, as well as the painter David Hockney). The new perspective energized them. Flöge, who was a couturier in her own right and rejected her era’s de rigueur corsets, gave the designers the collection’s gentle A-line silhouettes and the gold leaf effects on fox-fur coats, as well as lit-from-within quilted velvet coats. Birtwell, who is still alive and kicking and collaborated with Chiuri and Piccioli on their Pre-Fall collection, supplied the dragon motif that decorated a black trapeze dress.
But there was much more at play here, from the casual new vibes of oversize fisherman knit sweaters worn with A-line midi skirts to the sensual efficiency of silk crepe dresses, tie-neck blouse and wide-leg culottes, or an away-from-the-body black dress paneled in tonal strips of leather, as they are at their lovely eveningwear. Inevitably, though, it’s the gowns that get the attention.
(Actually, uploading the photos , i find a few outfits which i like too much! I must find out how to update or re-build my online Magazine , i wrote about it yet. The collections and Editorials will be the featuring Content but i want also one place for me, for my advices ect.)
Back to Paris Fashion Week and to collections for fall & winter 2015-2016 seasons.
Chloé Fall/Winter 2015-2016 pret-a-porter collection designed by Stevie Nicks was shown on March,8, 2015 in PFW.
I can only repeat what the collegues wrote yet : “ This is Chloe’s season. The obsession with the seventies; floor length coats, preferably with some shearling on the side, boho dresses with tall boots and peasant blouses“ .
D’accord! The collection is very 70ies. But same time the „Cloé woman“ lives today and she is chic and sophisticated, with individual character and complete confidence. She makes (or made yet?) carieer because if you want to wear Chloé you must have: first of all very good taste, second one -money because all this chic and sophisticate pieces are not cheap at all ( but! the taste you can’t buy! Or you have it or you don’t ) . Anyway, i think it’s better to have 10 outfits from luxus brands, of course factual collections that 50 different pieces „no Name“, it’s my own opinion, about all pro-and contra and why i think in this way i’ll tell you one day in posting dedicated only for this arguments. ( nothing against „no-name“! )
Back to collection, nice, wearble, very 70 ies but in this season it’s IN, and don’t forget, it’s not a vintage, it maybe in vintage style but it’s for woman which lives today, which wants to look chic in fall&winter 2015-2016!
Stella McCartney was shown her Fall/Winter 2015-2016 ready-to-wear collection in Paris Fashion Week, on March 9,2015. In this collection the daily Life is matching with the commands of Fashion! Th the opposite sides as celebration of freedom and exploring of classic are working in Stella’s collection perfect! ( but it was wrote yet, and not only here 🙂 )
It is very stylish collection, the full collection is a „masculine-meets-feminine“ .The corsets builts into tailoring , the classic tailored trouser suits with a particular touch of elegance are looking very feminine, there are dresses dressed down with ribbed polo necks beneath and there are the super luxe knitted sweaters, with „off“-the-shoulders. And the overcoats are „Fur-free“. It comes not very ofen in fall/winter 2015-2016 r-t-w collections which we re-„saw“ yet and which we will re-see in next winter monthes. ( Have i told you yet that i would like to write more about some outfits , for example which i like, to write about details ect.? )
Eveningwear becomes graphic and returns to black and white. Most of evening Outfits are also with „off“ the shoulder , pearl necklaces and ear jewellery makes the runway looks perfect. I think that a lot of woman will wear Stella McCartney in this season,.The silhouettes are easy to wear, the colours can seems for somebody a Little bit boring but for daily life ,for office and also for evening – The Daily Life is matching with the Commands of Fashion!