Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 21,2015.

Antonio Berardi played with the contrast between precise tailoring and romantic fluidity in this glamorous, yet easy collection.The standouts were languid silk dresses with billowing trains, as in one racer-back number in a pale sky blue. That design was worn with a matching silk trench coat that slipped off the model’s shoulders, adding to the collection’s undone air. And naturally for a designer whose collections occupy high-octane territory, there was plenty of embellishment, but this season Berardi worked his decoration in a comparatively low-key way. A series of silk dresses were stitched with a lavish paisley pattern of sequins, but they were matte rather than shiny.A masculine foil to the ultra-feminine creations came from tuxedo suits that were sharply cut, but worked into relaxed, oversized shapes. Among them was a gleaming white tuxedo with black lapels with rounded, cocooning shoulders.

KTZ Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

KTZ designer Marjan Pejoski is back to London Fashion Week with the KTZ Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection . Last collection, fall/winter 2015-2016 was shown in New York Fashion Week.

Pejoski’s exploration of urban street culture continued into the darker back alleys of an unspecified dystopia.

In the new KTZ collection the label’s signature club kid vibe remained in place, but Pejoski cashed in the nomadic vibe of previous collections and conjured a gritty urban feeling in its place. OUT with the tribal motifs , IN with chain-link Patterns.

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Ever since Pringle relaunched fifteen years ago under Kim Winser and Stuart Stockdale, oddness has become its stock in trade – a stubborn striving for strangeness, which banished the label’s candy-sweet golf-casual reputation to the archives, and sought to reestablish it as a serious fashion Player.Numerous designers have come and gone along the way since then, but s under chef dessigner Massimo Nicosia the label has found a new purposefulness in its focus on the techniques and technology.The past few seasons have seen Nicosia explore innovative technologies to create spectacular new surfaces.work. In this season Nicosia was trying to step back behind Pringle of Scotland’s thick-knit lambswool curtain into more elemental territory.

Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week ,on September 20,2015.

Mary Katrantzou quite contrary mixed the cosmic and chaos for her Spring/Summer collection that’s inspiration was “constructed to confuse.” Staged in the Granary Building, home to Central Saint Martins, the floor was covered in crunching sticky blue plastic against an imposing backdrop of tilting mirrors, giving a distorted view of the scene and its voyeurs. From the chaos of behind to the serenity on the runway, ethereal sequin covered chiffon dresses were strewn with intricate prints that looked like a contemporary twist of Giotto’s frescos and twinkling night skies.

Ribbon ties, metallic inserts, and piping in glowing gem colors mixed with candlelight complimenting shades, and a micro-fine metallic quilt effect that shifted across a million shades with each step. Floral crinkle sleeves contrasted with sequins, patchworks of print, colors and textures that all balanced on floral and snakeskin dipped boots with a metallic telescope-like heel.The collection closed with celestial block colors, burgundy with red, midnight with aqua blue, and black with color pattern ruffles that fluttered like a bustle as light as pollen in the wind in a show as beautiful as it was bewitching, showcasing an extraordinary aesthetic journey.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Can you reasonably rage against the machine when you are a highly profitable cog in it? This is an obvious paradox inherent in Dame Vivienne Westwood’s policy of using her shows as a podium from which to preach about the iniquities of mass consumerism and fossil fuel dependence.

Held in a basement space grippingly advertised outside as an “Alien Sex Club,” the runway was overlooked by a balcony on which gathered a band of paper-crowned model/protestors holding banners hostile to politicians and shale gas extraction.

The most piquant contradiction in this show was how incompatible the collection seemed with the rhetoric around it. Because while the styling was absolutely maverick—all smeared robber-mask eyes and sleep-in-a-tree hair—there is no other way to describe the clothes only with the word :conservative!