Giles Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

22/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Giles Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 21,2015.

The setting for Giles Deacon’s spring show was London’s Banqueting House, an ornate building that’s part of the 17th-century Whitehall Palace, complete with a Rubens ceiling. The lavish location suited his high-drama collection. Runway veterans including Eva Herzigova, Erin O’Connor and Karen Elson snaked around the vast room wearing often fantastical gowns whose shapes evoked everything from ruffled petticoats to Elizabethan silhouettes.

One satin bustier dress was structured with stiff panniers, and intricately embroidered with flowers, while another standout worn by Elson was done in a purple abstract print, with laser-cut edges that looked as if they had been charred by fire, and fan of material at the back that resembled unfurled peacock feathers.

Even Deacon’s calmer exits were still statement-making, as in a body-hugging, bias cut gown with a train, or a silk petticoat dress with tiered, billowing skirts. The collection was beautiful and arresting, and while its historical opulence overwhelmed real-world dressing, this also gave it an otherworldly, romantic Appeal.

Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week on September 21, 2015.

Christopher Kane surpised us each season with something entirely new to keep us on our toes. The interesting thing now is that those varied and brilliant ideas have built up as one to become his signature, a repertoire of techniques. When you see them, you know they’re his and this collection was especially clear in showing them off.

There was that neon lace, which more recently has slipped into his pre-collections, there were primary bolts of colour to configure with jagged and purposely-jarring appliqué and chaotic embroidery. It was a hyper take on homespun with stitching squiggling out like handwriting across a knit or a sheath of a dress. We knew we’d seen the idea once before, but here it was renewed and played out to entirely different effect. That was the point.

A kapow colour palette led the way for a collection that was about taking things apart and piecing them back together, the designer cited. „Crash and repair, that’s what we kept saying to each other.“

The train of thought followed what has been a difficult few months for Chris and Tammy, whose mother sadly passed away just before their show last February. So just as much as this was a collection inspired by John Chamberlain’s sculptures and Scottie Wilson, it was one that came from an emotional point of view. „The car crash became the metaphor,“ said Kane in his show notes.

And so that idea of damage and repair, of building back up, could be seen in the pieces, which were patched and pieced together: splaying fringing; plastic pockets; wafting layers of sheer with lace to trace the body; dresses fastened in place by plastic clasps, a brilliantly crude and inventive use of them.

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week.

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, on September 21,2015.

Absolutely new concept of the Brand collection!

Over the years, Bailey has relentlessly built upon this vision of the Burberry girl: she is the immaculate English Rose, elegant, effervescent and just happens to have perfectly blow-dried locks all hours of the day. This visual image the designer had crafted can be seen to clearly filter through the ranks in the company, manifesting itself even at the most junior level of the very polished press team. Groomed to the highest standards, their needle point stilettos propped them up to be on guard. It brought to mind old memories of Angela Ahrendts‘ steely yet astute gaze as she sat close to the entrance of the catwalk in past seasons.

With such strong internal culture and iconography intact several seasons after her departure, Christopher Bailey probably felt it was high time for the brand to explore new propositions. The Burberry girl witnessed today had a streak of street realism. Her hair was at times an undercut, sometimes cropped and in other looks mildly textured, perhaps out-of-bed. Lips were in the statement shade of black rose. See-through English broderie dresses were worn under shrunken peacoats with gold military detail — you could almost hear the designer quipping „lingerie is the new outerwear“ for spring. Bridal silk satin maxi dresses suggested the notion of vintage outfitting, taking an old ’80s gown, possibly a family heirloom, and paring it down with sandals. Bailey’s girl is now a lot more rebellious than before.

Alison Moyet performing with a live orchestra in the grounds of Kensington Gardens to an audience including Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and her girlfriend Saint Vincent, Benedict Cumberbatch, Tinie Tempah, plus the latest personalised must-buy you won’t be able to resist.

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Erdem Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Erdem Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week , September 21,2015

It’s a 10 anniversary of luxury brand today and Mr. Erdem Moralıoğlu celebrate it in the best way – with the an awesome show in London Fashion Week.

From Alexa Chung, to Sienna Miller, to Gwyneth Paltrow, Erdem’s client list reads like a who’s who of the world’s chicest starlets.

Roksanda by Roksanda Ilincic Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Roksanda Ilincic Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 21,2015.

To celebrate her milestone 10th anniversary at London Fashion, Roksanda looked to the work of sculptor Pascal Pierme and the light touch of Ikebana flower arranging and re-imagined it through her own impeccable vision. The models were her flowers, the clothes her sculptural signature. Set under high-vaulted deco arches, modernist curves and cubes of blush pink, MDF installations distorted the models’ walk around the venue, and brought the audience closer to the pieces.

Sleeves were gathered like sweet wrappers, drop shoulders were full and softly ruffled, and pantsuits placed the ruffled waistband so high they became jumpsuits. Colours of ice blue, nude, acidic yellow and burnt orange are signatures of Roksanda, but this season she outlined and punctuated with black, and mixed block colour cutouts, panelling and applied architectural precision with their placement.