London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week : fashion talents or theatrical drama on the catwalk?

| Syuzena Pitz
The London Fashion Week is finished.  There were  many different collections , many talented designers. It was the Fashion Week between theatrical drama and real world. There were the collections – for example  McQueen by Sarah Burton- which could be better to present on the Haute Couture Week ( it is only my opinion) . The most collections were beautiful, in every collection you can find the pieces which you want to have in your wardrobe. But, when we speak  about London it means we speak about world’s leading incubator of fashion talents that’s  why ,maybe , many of the shows felt like costume plays exercises.

 

AF Vandevorst
AF Vandevorst fall 2016
Alexander McQueen1
Alexander McQueen fall 2016
Alexander McQueen2
Alexander McQueen fall 2016
Alexander McQueen3
Alexander McQueen 2016
Erdem
Erdem fall 2016
Gareth Pugh 2
Gareth Pugh fall 2016
Gareth Pugh 3
Gareth Pugh fall 2016
Gareth Pugh1
Gareth Pugh fall 2016
JW Anderson
J.W. Anderson fall 2016
Mary Katrantzou1
Mary Katrantzou fall 2016
Peter Pilotto
Peter Pilotto fall 2016
Sibling
Sibling fall 2016

 

 

 

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2016-17 by Sarah Burton

| Syuzena Pitz
Sarah Burton has shown the most beautiful, sensitive, and breathtaking crafted Alexander McQueen  collection in London. What she started in the pre-fall 2016 collection, is reappeared in fall 2016 collection, along with owls, swans, moons and stars, drifting on embroidered sophisticated textiles as tulle and organza. Anyway, this collection is on the level of haute couture. She described her woman as: “Almost sleepwalking, in a state where reality and dreams become blurred.” About the collection : It started with black coats, variously jacquarded with pocket watches, eyes, and butterflies, or sculpted from fine leather and then hand-painted with flowers by a specialist floral artist. Tailoring was always one of McQueen’s power bases, and the mannish  exactitude of the double-lapel suits honored that  in a modern, feminine way.There were lacy bras and sleeves cut to fall off shoulders. Then came the knit dresses, which cascaded in gossamer layers as delicate as lace. And finally, we were in the place of dreams. The bodices of black tulle dresses were set with jeweled stars, each one a masterpiece. Satin duvet jackets, and a final superb shell-pink eiderdown coat, lined with marabou- it was a triumph! The tenderness and the technical expertise she mustered for this collection was brilliant.Burton’s own vision for McQueen is fully realized and applauded to the skies. The more she has relaxed into the confidence of her feminine instincts, the better she’s become. It was fitting that the venue she chose was the same one in which she assisted Lee McQueen at a show 20 years ago.

 

 

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2016-2017 #London Fashion Week

| Syuzena Pitz
Gareth Pugh unveiled fall/winter 2016-2017 collection during London Fashion Week.
Pugh has an incredible way with fluidity, but he always tends to gravitate towards angles – sharp shoulders, exaggerated triangles. While enveloping, wrap-around jackets made an appearance, alongside sweeping wide-leg trousers, it was the stiffer tailoring that seemed to define the collection. On remembering the power dressing of the eighties and the years where to be taken seriously woman had to dress like a man, I wondered, at first, why Pugh would latch on to such a conservative idea. But then, look closely, and this felt like a parody of that – the models cheeks were hitched up with wire to suggest a fake, cartoon woman. Indeed, this woman wasn’t seeking to blend in the boardroom, but terrify in the boardroom. Those Hannibal Lecter masks certainly suggested she was ready and willing to eat you alive. It seems lazy or cliched to call Pugh’s work futuristic, but he does sometimes seem to cater to some super human creature – one unruffled by real life.

 

 

Sibling Fall/Winter 2016 , London Fashion Week

| Syuzena Pitz
Sibling fall/winter 2016-2017 collection . London Fashion Week.
Inspired by Grace Jones Sibling’s collection  was fantastic.This was a boisterous, confident Show. It’s easy just to focus on Sibling’s catwalk theatrics – the bare breasts with  star-shaped nipple covers, the sexy retro body suits, the knit raffia-snoods, the plethora of lurex, the signature leopard print. But if you look beyond the obvious, they’re pushing a more complex form of dressing that extends far beyond show pieces and statement knits. It’s a new kind of power dressing, one that rejects the notion that one has to look ‘serious’ to be smart. The Sibling woman has always been a force to be reckoned with, but she had a new authority for A/W 16. Sibling not only push knitting excellence but they also promote a better, more sustainable, more positive view of femininity ,one that’s built around strength rather than mere style.

 

 

Alexander McQueen menswear F/W 2016-2017. LFW

| Syuzena Pitz
Sarah Burton unveiled Alexander McQueen menswear Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection.