Christopher Bailey , british designer turned CEO ,has made a name for himself as a master of reinvention, and at such a critical point in the label’s history he has proved that he commands the force to drive a storied brand into the future yet again.
See the collection now. Show review will be posted later.
Katrantzou’s earliest collections, rich with dazzling trompe l’oeil, created one of the most distinctive design signatures of the past decade, so distinctive, in fact, that her efforts to move on have been dogged by that early success. With her spring/summer 2017 collection, Mary Katrantzou snapped back to own who she is: a great print designer, and a Greek one.“It’s funny, I never wanted to use classical Greek art, because being from there, it seemed too obvious,” she said with a shrug after her show. “But this time, I thought, ‘Why not?’She looked back to her childhood visit to the ancient palace of Knossos, on Crete, the center of the Minoan civilization. Mary Katrantzou transposed the profiles of Minoan goddesses onto the bodices of dresses and printed them onto shimmery chain-mail tunics.
The night before this show, the opera Eliogabalo opened saison at the Palais Garnier, in Paris, with 60 costumes designed by Gareth Pugh. Seems that the Pugh’s work for the opera wound up informing his new collection. Anyway, there is no beating a Gareth Pugh show for sheer showmanship -this season, he accelerated hard into that impulse, sending out numerous looks in bullion-like gold These heavily decorated ensembles gave way to a collection notable for its atypical earthiness. There were the striped and sunburst-patterned looks which gives the Pugh aesthetic something new. The broad sundresses, caftans, and obi-belted looks struck an entirely original tone.
Smile and Wear Sibling could be a motto of Sibling’s spring/summer 2017 show yesterday . Sibling are one the brands which shaking up the fashion system. Few days ago Sibling announced the decision to show their men’s and women’s collections together, following Burberry and Gucci. Except Sibling will be doing so on the menswear schedule, rather than during the womenswear circus, unlike others who have opted to Combine both- womens-an menswear.Many brands are offering ripped jeans, oversized shirts and hoodies- the symbol of coolness nowadays but Sibling’s offer is different – Sibilng’s DNA is a knitwear – they offering something clean cut, playful with retro touch.
The London Fashion Week is finished. There were many different collections , many talented designers. It was the Fashion Week between theatrical drama and real world. There were the collections – for example McQueen by Sarah Burton- which could be better to present on the Haute Couture Week ( it is only my opinion) . The most collections were beautiful, in every collection you can find the pieces which you want to have in your wardrobe. But, when we speak about London it means we speak about world’s leading incubator of fashion talents that’s why ,maybe , many of the shows felt like costume plays exercises.
Sarah Burton has shown the most beautiful, sensitive, and breathtaking crafted Alexander McQueen collection in London. What she started in the pre-fall 2016 collection, is reappeared in fall 2016 collection, along with owls, swans, moons and stars, drifting on embroidered sophisticated textiles as tulle and organza. Anyway, this collection is on the level of haute couture. She described her woman as: “Almost sleepwalking, in a state where reality and dreams become blurred.” About the collection : It started with black coats, variously jacquarded with pocket watches, eyes, and butterflies, or sculpted from fine leather and then hand-painted with flowers by a specialist floral artist. Tailoring was always one of McQueen’s power bases, and the mannish exactitude of the double-lapel suits honored that in a modern, feminine way.There were lacy bras and sleeves cut to fall off shoulders. Then came the knit dresses, which cascaded in gossamer layers as delicate as lace. And finally, we were in the place of dreams. The bodices of black tulle dresses were set with jeweled stars, each one a masterpiece. Satin duvet jackets, and a final superb shell-pink eiderdown coat, lined with marabou- it was a triumph! The tenderness and the technical expertise she mustered for this collection was brilliant.Burton’s own vision for McQueen is fully realized and applauded to the skies. The more she has relaxed into the confidence of her feminine instincts, the better she’s become. It was fitting that the venue she chose was the same one in which she assisted Lee McQueen at a show 20 years ago.
Pugh has an incredible way with fluidity, but he always tends to gravitate towards angles – sharp shoulders, exaggerated triangles. While enveloping, wrap-around jackets made an appearance, alongside sweeping wide-leg trousers, it was the stiffer tailoring that seemed to define the collection. On remembering the power dressing of the eighties and the years where to be taken seriously woman had to dress like a man, I wondered, at first, why Pugh would latch on to such a conservative idea. But then, look closely, and this felt like a parody of that – the models cheeks were hitched up with wire to suggest a fake, cartoon woman. Indeed, this woman wasn’t seeking to blend in the boardroom, but terrify in the boardroom. Those Hannibal Lecter masks certainly suggested she was ready and willing to eat you alive. It seems lazy or cliched to call Pugh’s work futuristic, but he does sometimes seem to cater to some super human creature – one unruffled by real life.
Inspired by Grace Jones Sibling’s collection was fantastic.This was a boisterous, confident Show. It’s easy just to focus on Sibling’s catwalk theatrics – the bare breasts with star-shaped nipple covers, the sexy retro body suits, the knit raffia-snoods, the plethora of lurex, the signature leopard print. But if you look beyond the obvious, they’re pushing a more complex form of dressing that extends far beyond show pieces and statement knits. It’s a new kind of power dressing, one that rejects the notion that one has to look ‘serious’ to be smart. The Sibling woman has always been a force to be reckoned with, but she had a new authority for A/W 16. Sibling not only push knitting excellence but they also promote a better, more sustainable, more positive view of femininity ,one that’s built around strength rather than mere style.