This summer Dolce & Gabbana celebrated Sophia Loren and Naples with a their Alta Moda fall/winter 2016 show on Sautrday,a Naples. “This is my place, my land. Sometimes, it is not just about the clothes,” declared Domenico Dolce, backstage.“It is inspired by Sophia, by Naples, and tradition.“ Miss Loren made her way to be seated on a gilded velvet throne on a grandstand built on one of Naples’s oldest thoroughfares.The show began: a corseted swimsuit with a white satin sash, the words Miss Eleganza sewn in gold beads. It was a reminder that Sophia Loren’s first step to fame.Each look was garlanded with collaged headresses. There were balconette necklines and curvy pencil skirts,sexy dresses with swishing hems reminiscent of Loren’s “poor-girl” ’40s roles; and incredibly fitted black suits and coats made for going to mass, but worn over sensual satin slips. The show and an awesome evening ended with final firework.
Photos: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana and Vogue Runway
After Couture shows in Paris, Fendi shuttled guests by plane to Rome for their Haute Fourrure fall/winter 2016 show . Fendi secured the Trevi Fountain ofLa Dolce Vitafame for the Event. The fountains turned on, and the models started their march over a see-through runway built on top of its pools.Surely it will go down as one of the most majestic show venues ever.There were 46 looks.The 5,000 hand-cut holes that turned the rose-color persian lamb of a long dress into lace. The lynx jacket in delicate shadows of pink, the absolutely miniscule squares of mink that took 1,200 work hours to stitch together mosaic-style into a magical forest scene,crocheted dresses on a base of tulle were embroidered with swatches of mink and fringed leather.Lagerfeld found his starting point in a 1914 book of fairy tales illustrated by the Danish artist Kay Nielsen.“I called the show Legends and Fairy Tales,because it’s a collection that doesn’t relate to everybody like ready-to-wear, this is very special for people who have a special kind of life.”
It is a renewed sense of outward-looking engagement in Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2016.His collection mixed up fragments of technical urban streetwear with references to French revolutionary times, including a swaggering military greatcoat and a tricorne hat, worn at a jaunty angle, which might almost have been purloined from Napoleon’s own wardrobe.All the followers of John Galliano’s early work knows that the designer has had a career-long romance with French Revolution , which began with Les Incroyables, his graduation collection from Central Saint Martins, shown in 1984. In his new Artisanal Galliano even reffering back to his earlest work-it seems he reprised an idea for a muslin dress, embroidered with red lace from a collection he once did about the post-revolutionary Merveilleuses. In any case it is Galliano’s love of the empire line in general was evident here.The collection felt like the best marriage yet of Margiela and Galliano. It has long been a Galliano-ism to put clothes on upside down and back to front, it is a part of his experimental mission to question tradition and find new forms in clothing,a process that he has extending into wrapping, draping, and twisting swags of fabric to create new volumes.It’s also an on-point participation of the world of young fashion nowadays.