This summer Dolce & Gabbana celebrated Sophia Loren and Naples with a their Alta Moda fall/winter 2016 show on Sautrday,a Naples. “This is my place, my land. Sometimes, it is not just about the clothes,” declared Domenico Dolce, backstage.“It is inspired by Sophia, by Naples, and tradition.“ Miss Loren made her way to be seated on a gilded velvet throne on a grandstand built on one of Naples’s oldest thoroughfares.The show began: a corseted swimsuit with a white satin sash, the words Miss Eleganza sewn in gold beads. It was a reminder that Sophia Loren’s first step to fame.Each look was garlanded with collaged headresses. There were balconette necklines and curvy pencil skirts,sexy dresses with swishing hems reminiscent of Loren’s “poor-girl” ’40s roles; and incredibly fitted black suits and coats made for going to mass, but worn over sensual satin slips. The show and an awesome evening ended with final firework.
Photos: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana and Vogue Runway
After Couture shows in Paris, Fendi shuttled guests by plane to Rome for their Haute Fourrure fall/winter 2016 show . Fendi secured the Trevi Fountain ofLa Dolce Vitafame for the Event. The fountains turned on, and the models started their march over a see-through runway built on top of its pools.Surely it will go down as one of the most majestic show venues ever.There were 46 looks.The 5,000 hand-cut holes that turned the rose-color persian lamb of a long dress into lace. The lynx jacket in delicate shadows of pink, the absolutely miniscule squares of mink that took 1,200 work hours to stitch together mosaic-style into a magical forest scene,crocheted dresses on a base of tulle were embroidered with swatches of mink and fringed leather.Lagerfeld found his starting point in a 1914 book of fairy tales illustrated by the Danish artist Kay Nielsen.“I called the show Legends and Fairy Tales,because it’s a collection that doesn’t relate to everybody like ready-to-wear, this is very special for people who have a special kind of life.”
It is a renewed sense of outward-looking engagement in Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2016.His collection mixed up fragments of technical urban streetwear with references to French revolutionary times, including a swaggering military greatcoat and a tricorne hat, worn at a jaunty angle, which might almost have been purloined from Napoleon’s own wardrobe.All the followers of John Galliano’s early work knows that the designer has had a career-long romance with French Revolution , which began with Les Incroyables, his graduation collection from Central Saint Martins, shown in 1984. In his new Artisanal Galliano even reffering back to his earlest work-it seems he reprised an idea for a muslin dress, embroidered with red lace from a collection he once did about the post-revolutionary Merveilleuses. In any case it is Galliano’s love of the empire line in general was evident here.The collection felt like the best marriage yet of Margiela and Galliano. It has long been a Galliano-ism to put clothes on upside down and back to front, it is a part of his experimental mission to question tradition and find new forms in clothing,a process that he has extending into wrapping, draping, and twisting swags of fabric to create new volumes.It’s also an on-point participation of the world of young fashion nowadays.
In the old days, Coco Chanel invited her audience to shows in her house, but this time the house came to the audience. Karl Lagerfeld know for putting on elaborated shows for the world’s most famous brands, transformed yesterday Paris’s Grand Palace into Chanel Atelier, Modezar shipped the entire staff of the ateliers, which are housed on Rue Cambon—along with their dummies, sewing machines, cutting tables, fabrics, embroidery materials, canvas toiles, every specialist tool of the trade— and asked them to carry on working as usual in their transplanted environment. In the Chanel haute Couture f/w 2016 collection were cropped tweed wide-leg pantsuits, and extraordinarily wide, flatly squared-off shoulders .Intricate floral emboidery decorated some Looks which were worn with the kitten-heeled, ankle-hugging black suede boots.
In his third couture collection- Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2016– Guyon explored Schiaparelli’s summer 1938 circus show, a collection so iconic he expressed anxiety at the thought of reprising it. The risk paid off. It was his best judged effort so far, faithful in spirit and silhouette to Schiaparelli’s work, but not slavish about it.The collection was rather subdued, with elegant, even streamlined black and midnight blue tailoring and dresses. Guyon said he found many pieces in the archive in that deep shade of navy. The two nods in Schiaparelli’s eccentric direction were the extreme, built-up shoulder constructions and the lighthearted, somewhat surrealistic jewelry.
Donatella Versace presented her Fall 2016 Atelier Versace collection in Paris on Sunday, bringing with her a cast of supermodels and front row celebrities. Everything about Sunday’s show was social media friendly, from the venue to the front row – some names only!-Naomi Campbell,Bradley Cooperand Jennifer Garner- to the casting-models like Mariacarla Boscono, Sasha Pivovarova, Iselin Steiro, Joan Smalls, Irina Shayk, Carolyn Murphy. Bella Hadid and Taylor Hill represented the new guard of modeling It girls on the Versace catwalk.Karen Elson opened the show-wrapped in cashmere and duchess satin coat, casually belted at the waist, revealing only her right shoulder. It was followed by more outerwear, in burgundy and baby blue, another risky colour combination that actually worked. The intricacies of draping, wrapping, and folding were explored in the collection, with pieces curving around the body to crate intricate shapes and silhouettes.There was great tailoring in the shape of two-piece suits with draped portrait collars and duchess satin skin tight overalls and asymmetrical dresses .
„Alice in Wonderland“ inspired this enchanting editorial published in April issue of Vogue China. Starring model is Lauren de Graaf . Lauren de Graaf wears haute couture gowns from Chanel, Givenchy, Atelier Versace , Valentino , Viktor&Rolf , Schiaparelli Giambattista Valli , Elie Saab and Christian Dior.
Model: Lauren de Graaf
Photographer: Alexandra Sophie
Fashion Editor: Martine de Menthon
Hair: Cyril Laloue