Fashionwordlstuff by Syuzena Pitz

Dion Lee Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection, NYFW. Dion Lee the name to remember!

| Syuzena Pitz
Australian designer Dion Lee is certainly ready for a large stage, as NYFW. A lot of us remember him about his „Debut“ during London Fashion Week, in 2012. It’s tempting to describe the appeal of Lee’s clothes in terms of their technical accomplishments: the geometry of the silhouettes; the innovative, architectural quality of the construction; the unexpected materials artfully deployed. Lee’s main focus this season was on making direct clothes,he got at directness by way of a handful of abstract ideas. One was to construct clothes such that they seemed to float away from the Body and the second one was to make clothes appear backlit—hence the motifs of perforation and crystal dappled onto material or bonded into it.  His play with hardware was very intrigiung and same time very sophisticated . Lee tried to create the tension between functional  and ornamental details, the hoop-shaped  jewelry of varying size are piercing the garments.

 

Australian designer Dion Lee is certainly ready for a large stage, as NYFW. A lot of us remember him about his „Debut“ during London Fashion Week, in 2012. It’s tempting to describe the appeal of Lee’s clothes in terms of their technical accomplishments: the geometry of the silhouettes; the innovative, architectural quality of the construction; the unexpected materials artfully deployed. Lee’s main focus this season was on making direct clothes,he got at directness by way of a handful of abstract ideas. One was to construct clothes such that they seemed to float away from the Body and the second one was to make clothes appear backlit—hence the motifs of perforation and crystal dappled onto material or bonded into it.  His play with hardware was very intrigiung and same time very sophisticated . Lee tried to create the tension between functional  and ornamental details, the hoop-shaped  jewelry of varying size are piercing the garments.

A triumph of glam rock-Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection

| Syuzena Pitz
The most anticipated Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 menswear show, during which famous designer Hedi Slimane has shown the first part of his womenswear collection finally  took place ,second  part  will be unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, later this fashion season. Hedi Slimane choosed the Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard in his beloved City  of Angeles for  his spectacular Show.Inspired by Californian subculture, Slimane’s collection paid homage to his most treasured rock idols.  It was the second project Hedi Slimane has curated in the City ( the first was  his contemporary photography show in November 2011)The 93-look collection also celebrated the 50th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche collection, and the looks paid subtle homage to his legacy.The collection was mostly unisexe and saw Hedi returning to his signature style pieces. The girls  were all dressed in the sort of midi-length skirts or culottes and Victoriana dresses favored by Loulou de La Falaise at the cusp of the ’70s, complete with the broad belts, shrunken jackets, or Berber capes she wore with them.The  boys  wore Slimane’s signature sprayed-on jeans, or skinny cut pants with a military stripe down the side, and elaborately embellished Hussar jackets. Let us attend the second part of Slimane’s show- Womenswear Part II. The Fashion month is began yet.

 

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2016

| Syuzena Pitz

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2016.

Valentino menswear Fall/Winter 2016-2017

| Syuzena Pitz
Valentino fall/winter 2016-2017 collection designed by duo Maria Grazia Chiuri  and Pierpaolo Piccioli  is for  a man who lives in luxury, in luxury of freedom to travels around the world, accumulate a wealth of life experience and Valentino’s men wardrobe seems to  be based on the diverse experiences and passions of life. You can see the moodboard of the collection the designers  references: a young Pasolini, a Kerouac,  William Burroughs  Edward Curtis’s Indian warriors, a pensive John Lennon, an equally moody Steven Morrissey.The show has began with black tailoring . The camel coats matched with black suits, Then came hopsack linens, a string of glorious tribal-inflected Moment,  which had something similar with womens collection for this summer, S/S 2016) : star appliques, embroidery Navaho suedes, a tie-dyed cape, beaded and fringed denim pieces. Versions of Joy Division’s „Love With Tear Us Apart“ and The Smith’s „There is a Light that Never Goes Out“ filled the show space. It was fabulous. It is fabulous!

 

Gucci „Poetic Reactivation“ menswear collection

| Syuzena Pitz
Alessandro Michele unveiled Gucci menswear fall/winter 2016-2017 collection.
Under Michele’s tenure, Gucci  started to change a complete look of their customers. Gucci these days is genderless, seasonless, formal and casual mixed. Gucci men became an androgynous, free, eclectic and , he is not a teen anymore,Gucci men became a boy in a state of identity flux, alive. He was clad in Snoopy t-shirts, a teddy-bear cardigan and little caps and hats with animal details and tassels dangling by the ears . The approach to age is very intiguing because one can imagine these clothes on a grandma as much as a teen boy, a young girl as much as a grown man. Age is the ultimate taboo in fashion -and in our society- and  Michele is pioneering by playing with it. That sense of generation tourism fits with the title of the collection – Poetic Reactivation. Michele is offering not invention but reinvention and revival.This was about discovering items from the past, and exploring how they feel contemporary or relevant to now, and in turn how a new generation or fresh eye can see new meaning in them. It’s simply different. A different philosophy. But it’s about the luxuryt because the  freedom and choice is true luxury a new way of looking at things – it’s a Poetic Reactivation.