Hermés Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201507/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

It’s not easy to find words to explain the ingeniously crafted, superfine fabrics and leather it uses in Hermés without sounding pretentious. I’ll try to describe what the Hermés about : Hermès is the essence of the cultivated, inbred french point of view that if you have wealth, it must be spent so that it doesn’t show except to those of your class. (Anyway a woman must never blunder by trying to be sexy, appear to wear makeup, or have done hair direct from hair stylist! – but too much women are half-blind to all these nuances. ) A lot of us wanted to know how Vanhee-Cybulski would set out the Hermès principles for Spring. and what can i tell you- she did it – with a simplified sequence of blue-black tailoring and grid-patterned black-on-cream tops and pants, and mustard-color dresses in cotton and leather, accessorized with large quartz and clear resin cuffs. She’s brought a sense of relaxed city-sportiness to the picture, showing Hermès trainers with many looks and dialing back on the horsey heritage for the moment. It’s not showy “fashion” that is being sold here; more a carefully calibrated sense of a lifestyle which consciously rises above trendiness. For those who want to belong to it, the quality of the materials will be explained in the ritual of buying at Hermès.

Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201507/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Giambattista Valli is finding favour with the little babydoll dress right now – it’s a style that underpins his Giamba line and it’s one that he gave to us in the plenty last season. Only where then it was over trousers for long and lean lengths, this time round it was about bare legs on show and great flat-formed gladiator sandals that climbed the length of the leg beneath a coat of similar proportions up top. He continued with his riff on Seventies patterning and made sure there was a handful of gowns to swoon over too,they billowed in hippy grace and half morphed into the babydoll numbers that preceded them. Valli seems to have found a new youthful groove when it comes to his ready-to-wear line.

Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201506/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Stella McCartney unveiled her spring/summer 2016 collection today morning in Paris Fashion Week.

Grandios Show in Operá´Garnier.

Stella McCartney put a major emphasis on knits in her spring-summer collection. Knitwear has become more visible on Spring runways in last few fahion cycles because a lot of innovative, computer-enabled techniques have allowed designers to do things not possible before. Of course , there’s also another reason sweater dressing is on the rise – because of comfort. McCartney’s layered tanks, polo shirts, and tube skirts looked stretchy as activewear, sporty and poised for action on the athletic sandals they paraded out on, but elevated in bright stripes, checks, and transparencies. She also played with pleated knits in loose trapeze-like shapes with sexy cutaways. It’s been a great week for color in Paris, but McCartney’s as bold as anybody, combining orange and blue or chili red with pink on those knit separates. Swirls of ribbon embroidery made a similarly strong impact on tracksuits and Dresses.

Her other project here was remake the suit, which has been an icon of the brand from the beginning. She did that via deconstruction; a double-breasted black jacket was transformed into a strapless, form-fitting tunic worn over a multi-slit skirt. More conventional pieces like vests and trousers had an appealing fluidity and elongated proportions.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Sarah Burton unveiled Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 collection.It is most personal collection designed by Sarah Burton since she took over as creative director of Alexander McQueen. “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft,” said Burton backstage.

To an extent, the beautiful dresses—with their ruffles cascading across the body and falling off shoulders, the palette of pale pink, the flower-strewn patterns, the pristine cotton, the tattered lace, and the frock-coated tailoring—speak for themselves. Everything about them in these times when every camera phone has a zoom lens can be examined in all their extraordinary detail, down to the finest knitted stitches, the flower-painted wooden clogs, and the couture-level embroidery. On the other hand, for all that the ethereal lightness, whip-smart tailoring, and elaborate designs communicated a new, relaxed, of-the-season relevance, they also carried the story of a London history that Burton wanted to make known.

The collection has McQueen DNA but it’s a Sarah Burton who create it.

John Galliano Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

04/10/201505/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Galliano is a genie, there is no doubt about it. His creativity has thousend facets. This week we saw luxury and creativity of his Maison Margiela’s s/s 2016 prêt-à-porter collection . But here let us remember that John Galliano’s fashion house named Bill Gaytten as new creative director of Galliano’s eponymous Label… but it was a few years ago. So what?- will think you. So, it means that we don’t ( and didn’t see in last collections) see eccentric creations under John Galliano eponymous Label as we are waiting for and about he is famous for.

Anyway ,Galliano had come to represent British eccentricity at its wildest, Gaytten offered a variant that felt more fit to the lifestyle of his youthful target.But the initial order of business was to return to his roots, and those of the brand, by examining Britishness, seen through the kaleidoscope of its sartorial history. From tailoring to punk, from uniforms to underdressed, the staples of the genre were reinterpreted in gossamer thin fabric. All charming, but extra points went to blazers with sheer panels and parkas in mesh, perfectly cut and a testament to Gaytten’s talent in this field. Beading and delicate laces were paired with restraint. The lingerie overtone of many of the dresses was offset by the London energy that pulsated heavily from the runway.