All about fashion

Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-17 or

| Syuzena Pitz
Was it the beginning of La Maison Yves Saint Laurent– a new, or reconstituted, haute couture house?  Or Was it Hedi Slimane’s farewell at Saint Laurent? ( Today we know  that it was last Show Slimane did for Saint Laurent) Hedi Slimane’s show was a full-on shock: a collection which pushed the ’80s shoulder to a pinnacle of upstanding exaggeration, drove glittery hemlines up, plunged necklines, belted waists with flourishing side-bows, poufed skirts, clad legs in sheer black tights, and put feet into stiletto pumps. There was an homage toYves Saint Laurent in every look, yet the collection was just as uncompromisingly faithful to the ultra-ultra-skinny youth aesthetic which Hedi Slimane has pushed in fashion for his whole career.This show was held in a beautiful 18th-century house on the Rue de l’Université, and conducted in bright lighting as models filed out—precisely in the style which was standard in old haute couture houses until the 1980s. The numbers of the outfits were even called out as each girl appeared, yet there was nothing satirical or ironic in the presentation. At that proximity, the quality of the clothes can’t be faked—and it was impeccable. From the smoothly fine fit of the leather dresses to the raven-wing sequins, the black ostrich coat with the pink- and turquoise-painted tips, and the extraordinary black columns and flounced tiers of the evening dresses, this collection proved that Slimane can cut it and fit it with the best.

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016 #PFW

| Syuzena Pitz
John Galliano presented his Fall 2016 collection for Maison Margiela today during Paris Fashion Week. The show was held in a white space constructed within the Grand Palais. This time around there were no creeping models and no boys in dresses, just mixed and matched ready-to-wear to please the Margiela customer. Spliced together thin knits, black suiting, and wearable, military-inflected outwear made up a bulk of the collection.

 

 

 

 

Versace Fall/Winter 2016-2017 :Sexiness is back on the Versace runway

| Syuzena Pitz
It is safe to say that sexiness is back at Versace, but in keeping with the hard-core, military-womenspower  mood Donatella Versace  set out for spring/summer 2016 season—Fall 2016 is a different, more various kind of sexy, embracing models of a range of shapes and ages. “I love mixing the cool girls with the reality girls,” Donatella said backstage. “It’s about a woman’s power—for every kind of woman!“
For fall 2016 season, again, Donatella Versace has paid attention to daywear, starting with black leather-trimmed suits and belted coats, moving into biker-jacketed tailoring, taut ski-pants, and a section of sporty crosshatched knit dresses, and one big chunky sweater in an abstracted alpine pattern . Then came the prints, some of them consisting of baroque curlicues designed by Gianni Versace and then  remaked  on the computer.There were  so much dark blue, ice-blue,  coral,yellow ,wavy and stretched lines that drew the eye so much as the general sense of energy radiated by this new, more inclusive and individualistic band of Versace models. And there were , again , many long legs on show, and a comeback for the power of dressing in black.

 

 

 

Prada Fall/Winter 2016-17 .Milan

| Syuzena Pitz
Something about Miuccia Prada’s collections brings out the fashion scholar in all of us. Sphinxlike in her pronouncements, the designer prefers to let the clothes speak for themselves—and what a wealth of material she provided for deconstruction for fall 2016 on her accessory-laden models. Many of them wore loosely laced corsets cinched with looped belts from which hung more small treasures and that recalled antique chatelaines.Prada’s women is a vagabond —a woman who might be out traveling the world  or maybe making a deeper pilgrimage into the labyrinth of womens history. Prada’s fall 2016 collection is as layered as the clothes she showed, in a purpose-built, almost medieval marketplace of a wooden set. In show notes, Prada put : “The nature of women is complex and ineffable . . . Like a Russian doll placed inside one another.”

 

 

 

 

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016-2017

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Peter Dundas unveiled Roberto Cavalli fall/winter 2016-2017 collection during first day of Milan Fashion Week.Peter Dundas has always been fashion’s most committed translator of the louche world of the early-1970s rock’n-roll chick. And there were many luxuriuos looks on the runway-maxi coats, patchwork fur capes, skimpy lace dresses, platform boots and trailing lurex scarves.This collection is also seems to be the continuation of the look Dundas has carried over from his tenure at Emilio Pucci.Like many others designers this season, Dundas made a play for the long, transparent dress.But in Dundas Roberto Cavalli collection this year are many significant material upgrades such a tiger-stripe velvet, gold tissue lace, caviar beading, intarsia fur, baroque curliqued embroidery and all the shiny textured silks that went into tailoring the high-waisted, skinny, flared pant suits.