Breaking News: Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli exits Calvin Klein

Yesterday,Calvin Klein  Inc. announced the departure of Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli from their respective creative director roles for the Calvin Klein Collection women’s and men’s lines. „I would like to thank Francisco and Italo for their unwavering commitment to the Calvin Klein brand and their accomplishments over the past decade,“ said CEO Steve Shiffman in a statement. „They have both contributed immensely to making Calvin Klein a global leader in the fashion industry, and they have done so with dedication, focus and creativity.“ Costa has led CK’s womenwear since 2003; Zucchelli has been the men’s creative director since 2004.

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Francisco Costa (l) and Italo Zucchelli ( r) . Photo  credit : Getty Images

„CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein are currently under the purview of global director Kevin Carrigan, whose name was not mentioned in the statement about Costa and Zucchelli’s departure. The company has stated that the new brand direction will touch every category of the business, which indicates that Raf Simons, if he is indeed appointed, will have complete creative control, something he is said to have coveted at Christian Dior, where men’s fashion, store concepts and beauty were overseen by other designers. Beauty products manufacturer Coty owns the license for Calvin Klein fragrances.“ ( Quote from Bussinessoffashion.com )

 

 

Breaking News: Anthony Vaccarello to Yves Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello has been named creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, the fashion house and parent company Kering confirmed.
“I am extremely happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent,“ said Francesca Bellettini, president and chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent. „His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison. Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent. I am enthusiastic about embarking on a new era with Anthony Vaccarello, and together bringing the maison further success.”
 Francois-Henri Pinault,chairman and CEO of Kering, added: “I am very proud to welcome such a vivid and young force among today’s creative fashion talents to Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s unique style will greatly express the maison’s creative signature and fashion authority, building on the brand’s solid foundations, and further developing it to realise its full potential. Together with the entire Yves Saint Laurent team, Anthony Vaccarello will strongly contribute to the maison’s growing accomplishments.”

 

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“Mr Saint Laurent is a legendary figure for his creativity, style and audacity,“ said Vaccarello. „I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the history of this extraordinary house.”
Vaccarello, 36, spent three years at Versus Versace, initially as a consultant and, since 2015, as creative director. Alongside his role at Versus, Belgian-born Vaccarello has overseen his eponymous label since 2009, known for its sexuality-laced collections of slashed and laced-up mini skirts, cleavage-baring suit jackets worn over corsets and shiny black leather outerwear.
Vaccarello’s first collection for the house will be Spring/Summer 2017, and is set to be shown in October, during Paris Fashion Week.
Source : Business of Fashion -businessoffashion.com

 

From Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 -2017 collection.

 

Breaking News : Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent

Kering Group confirms Hedi Slimane Exit from YSL. The news was confirmed today in a brief joint statement issued by Yves Saint Laurent and Kering, the luxury group which owns the storied French brand.
“What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house,” said Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering,said in a joint statement with Saint Laurent :  “I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand.”

 

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Hedi Slimane

 

 

Slimane earned his reputation as a men’s wear maverick, initially making a name for himself as the designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme in the late Nineties, when Elbaz was in charge of women’s ready-to-wear, before going on to popularize skinny black suits and rock-tinged androgyny at Dior Homme.
An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane emerged from fashion’s shadows during his first stint at YSL. Hired as an assistant in fashion marketing at YSL in 1997 and then  promoted to designer, Slimane successfully revved up the label’s Rive Gauche Homme collection with sleek, androgynous tailoring.
Slimane resigned from YSL in 2000 to pursue exclusive negotiations with ist „parents“ , later knows as a Gucci Group .He ended up signing on with rival Dior, embarking on an ambitious project that electrified men’s wear with his glitzy fashion shows and minimalist boutiques.
He exited that brand in 2007 and pursued a photography and art career before returning to the fashion fold in 2012 at the creative helm of YSL, which he rechristened Saint Laurent to return to the initial impulses in the Sixties that drove the late, legendary couturier to introduce ready-to-wear.Slimane was granted total creative responsibility for the brand image and all its collections.
Today’s announcement is sure to speed the naming of Slimane’s successor, widely expected to be Anthony Vaccarello , with a start date as soon as May 1 – in time for the spring 2017 shows in Paris this fall.   ( Source : WWD.com)
A Belgian designer partial to the racy, fast-paced side of fashion, Vaccarello had recently been recruited by Donatella Versace for her reboot of the Versus brand.Vaccarello, 33, would become only the fourth ready-to-wear designer at YSL.
Sources :Business of Fashion  http://www.businessoffashion.com and   WWD.com

 

From Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection designed by Hedi Slimane

Breaking News : Bouchra Jarrar is a new artistic director of Lanvin womenwear collections

It is a woman  at the helm of the house Jeanne Lanvin built. On Friday morning, 11.03.2016, the Lanvin chief executive Michèle Huiban confirmed that Bouchra Jarrar had been named artistic director of Lanvin women’s collections. She begins Monday.Lanvin is the oldest couture house continually in existence in Paris.
Bouchra Jarrar, 45, graduated from Paris’ Duperré School of Applied Arts in 1994. After a two-year tenure designing Jean-Paul Gaultier’s licensed jewellery collection, she joined Balenciaga under Josephus Thimister, then-artistic director at the house, and later served as studio director under Nicolas Ghesquiére. She earned the official Haute Couture   appellation in 2013. In 2015 French venture capital firm Mode et Finance took a minority investment in Jarrar’s Label, she retains a 74 percent holding in the company.
From Bouchra Jarrar’s  Autumn/Winter 2015-16 and Spring/Summer 2016 Haute Couture collections

 

 Lanvin womenswear  Autumn/Winter 2016- 2017 collection made by Team.

 

 

Iris van Herpen Fall/Winter 2016-2017 #Paris

There’s been a lot of talk about shaking up the fashion show system this month, but it wasn’t until the penultimate day of the Paris collections that anyone did something that felt truly new except dutsch designer Iris van Herpen  who presented her fall/winter 2016 collection  on the tableau vivant in which models performed in front of giant optical light screens.  The screens acted as  mirror and window, reflecting a doubled image that shifted depending on the model’s position and the viewer’s point of view.These runway pictures fail to convey the installation’s mesmerizing effect, however they do illustrate that Van Herpen has made efforts to increase the wearability of her clothes. The silhouettes are quite short and perched on almost un-walkable heels, but they’re all lined and discrete, a necessary change from last season’s. Otherwise, she’s as experimental as ever. Two dresses were made using 3-D printers  and a few others, created in collaboration with the architect Philip Beesley, combined laser-cut hexagonal discs with plastic tubing like new-fashioned chain-mail armor. It was ready-to-wear as sculpture. It was a fascination of future which Iris van Herpen has made yesterday on the parisian runway.