Designers

Breaking News : Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent

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Kering Group confirms Hedi Slimane Exit from YSL. The news was confirmed today in a brief joint statement issued by Yves Saint Laurent and Kering, the luxury group which owns the storied French brand.
“What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house,” said Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering,said in a joint statement with Saint Laurent :  “I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand.”

 

Hedi
Hedi Slimane

 

 

Slimane earned his reputation as a men’s wear maverick, initially making a name for himself as the designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme in the late Nineties, when Elbaz was in charge of women’s ready-to-wear, before going on to popularize skinny black suits and rock-tinged androgyny at Dior Homme.
An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane emerged from fashion’s shadows during his first stint at YSL. Hired as an assistant in fashion marketing at YSL in 1997 and then  promoted to designer, Slimane successfully revved up the label’s Rive Gauche Homme collection with sleek, androgynous tailoring.
Slimane resigned from YSL in 2000 to pursue exclusive negotiations with ist „parents“ , later knows as a Gucci Group .He ended up signing on with rival Dior, embarking on an ambitious project that electrified men’s wear with his glitzy fashion shows and minimalist boutiques.
He exited that brand in 2007 and pursued a photography and art career before returning to the fashion fold in 2012 at the creative helm of YSL, which he rechristened Saint Laurent to return to the initial impulses in the Sixties that drove the late, legendary couturier to introduce ready-to-wear.Slimane was granted total creative responsibility for the brand image and all its collections.
Today’s announcement is sure to speed the naming of Slimane’s successor, widely expected to be Anthony Vaccarello , with a start date as soon as May 1 – in time for the spring 2017 shows in Paris this fall.   ( Source : WWD.com)
A Belgian designer partial to the racy, fast-paced side of fashion, Vaccarello had recently been recruited by Donatella Versace for her reboot of the Versus brand.Vaccarello, 33, would become only the fourth ready-to-wear designer at YSL.
Sources :Business of Fashion  http://www.businessoffashion.com and   WWD.com

 

From Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection designed by Hedi Slimane

Breaking News : Bouchra Jarrar is a new artistic director of Lanvin womenwear collections

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It is a woman  at the helm of the house Jeanne Lanvin built. On Friday morning, 11.03.2016, the Lanvin chief executive Michèle Huiban confirmed that Bouchra Jarrar had been named artistic director of Lanvin women’s collections. She begins Monday.Lanvin is the oldest couture house continually in existence in Paris.
Bouchra Jarrar, 45, graduated from Paris’ Duperré School of Applied Arts in 1994. After a two-year tenure designing Jean-Paul Gaultier’s licensed jewellery collection, she joined Balenciaga under Josephus Thimister, then-artistic director at the house, and later served as studio director under Nicolas Ghesquiére. She earned the official Haute Couture   appellation in 2013. In 2015 French venture capital firm Mode et Finance took a minority investment in Jarrar’s Label, she retains a 74 percent holding in the company.
From Bouchra Jarrar’s  Autumn/Winter 2015-16 and Spring/Summer 2016 Haute Couture collections
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture F/W 2015-16
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture F/W 2015-16
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture F/W 2015-16
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture S/S 2016
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture S/S 2016
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture S/S 2016
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture S/S 2016

 

 Lanvin womenswear  Autumn/Winter 2016- 2017 collection made by Team.

 

 

Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-17 or

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Was it the beginning of La Maison Yves Saint Laurent– a new, or reconstituted, haute couture house?  Or Was it Hedi Slimane’s farewell at Saint Laurent? ( Today we know  that it was last Show Slimane did for Saint Laurent) Hedi Slimane’s show was a full-on shock: a collection which pushed the ’80s shoulder to a pinnacle of upstanding exaggeration, drove glittery hemlines up, plunged necklines, belted waists with flourishing side-bows, poufed skirts, clad legs in sheer black tights, and put feet into stiletto pumps. There was an homage toYves Saint Laurent in every look, yet the collection was just as uncompromisingly faithful to the ultra-ultra-skinny youth aesthetic which Hedi Slimane has pushed in fashion for his whole career.This show was held in a beautiful 18th-century house on the Rue de l’Université, and conducted in bright lighting as models filed out—precisely in the style which was standard in old haute couture houses until the 1980s. The numbers of the outfits were even called out as each girl appeared, yet there was nothing satirical or ironic in the presentation. At that proximity, the quality of the clothes can’t be faked—and it was impeccable. From the smoothly fine fit of the leather dresses to the raven-wing sequins, the black ostrich coat with the pink- and turquoise-painted tips, and the extraordinary black columns and flounced tiers of the evening dresses, this collection proved that Slimane can cut it and fit it with the best.

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016 #PFW

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John Galliano presented his Fall 2016 collection for Maison Margiela today during Paris Fashion Week. The show was held in a white space constructed within the Grand Palais. This time around there were no creeping models and no boys in dresses, just mixed and matched ready-to-wear to please the Margiela customer. Spliced together thin knits, black suiting, and wearable, military-inflected outwear made up a bulk of the collection.

 

 

 

 

Versace Fall/Winter 2016-2017 :Sexiness is back on the Versace runway

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It is safe to say that sexiness is back at Versace, but in keeping with the hard-core, military-womenspower  mood Donatella Versace  set out for spring/summer 2016 season—Fall 2016 is a different, more various kind of sexy, embracing models of a range of shapes and ages. “I love mixing the cool girls with the reality girls,” Donatella said backstage. “It’s about a woman’s power—for every kind of woman!“
For fall 2016 season, again, Donatella Versace has paid attention to daywear, starting with black leather-trimmed suits and belted coats, moving into biker-jacketed tailoring, taut ski-pants, and a section of sporty crosshatched knit dresses, and one big chunky sweater in an abstracted alpine pattern . Then came the prints, some of them consisting of baroque curlicues designed by Gianni Versace and then  remaked  on the computer.There were  so much dark blue, ice-blue,  coral,yellow ,wavy and stretched lines that drew the eye so much as the general sense of energy radiated by this new, more inclusive and individualistic band of Versace models. And there were , again , many long legs on show, and a comeback for the power of dressing in black.