Haute Couture

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016

| Syuzena Pitz
The gardens of Paris and their flowers seems to be the Inspiration  during creation his spring/summer 2016 haute couture collection.
“It’s kind of a thank-you to Paris,” he said backstage. “You know that flowers are my obsession. This time they come from the Parc de Bagatelle, the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Palais-Royal, and the Jardin des Tuileries.”
 Cue the short lengths, tailor-made for the  young ladies who were sitting at front row during his show Cue the exaggerated volumes, this time focused on bishop sleeves, Watteau backs, and a handful of empire-waist gowns. And cue the by now trademark parade of tulle plissé grand finale gowns, the boldest and best in a pulsating shade of red poppy.Sparkle and sequin were downplayed here in favor of colorful embroideries and appliqués; when Valli did employ crystals, it was in grid-like patterns as precise as his flowers were flamboyant. As a rule, the fleurs were more persuasive. They came in many forms: picked out in paillettes on an organza empire-waist dress; as swirling garlands on short-in-front/long-in-back gowns of lace macramé; and, quite prettily, intarsia-ed in a rosebush motif on a short coat in white mink.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 2016 ‚Le Palace‘ collection

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Jean Paul Gaultier unveiled his Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week.This was a good Jean Paul Gaultier  show and, as always, , Gaultier shows are not only a celebration of fashion but an ode to those who make fashion what it is,constantly reinvent the stuff of fashionworld dreams.Collection is full of clothes that many of us would enjoy wearing to go to night clubs. Pieces like a fully embroidered men’s smoking jacket sashed at the waist with a silk braid and tassels; a tuxedo made from white marabou feathers trimmed in black bugle beads worn with fishnets instead of pants; and a one-shoulder lace-edged cape covered in crystals. Though undoubtedly a lot of work went into these items, the overall attitude wasn’t precious. Quite the opposite: An oversize souvenir jacket was tossed casually over a sequined dress; another evening number was topped by a jean jacket; there were shorts. Bleached denim and silk that looked like bleached denim formed the basis of a handful of Looks.You got the feeling that Gaultier wasn’t taking things too seriously. Outliers such as a chartreuse robe layered under a blue beaded body-con dress could’ve sagely remained back in the atelier. Still, when he puts his mind to it, he can cut one hell of a suit. The frilled lapels on an otherwise crisp wool jacket took all the business out of its pinstripes. The fit on a black crepe sheath with orange lace spilling out of a slit in the back was pretty divine, too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ‚Artisanal‘

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John Galliano exhibits one more time a natural affinity for Margiela’s Artisanal collection.Galliano’s   Artisanal collections used to tell stories of a depth and complexity.Maison Margiela S/S 2016 ‚Artisanal‘  is the best collection which was shown during Haute Couture Week. The creativity pure! The white coat in wool and twill silk, , a silk twill skirt suit which was draped with lamé, one sleeve coat with jacquard…precious „simplicity“ where every detail is particular, is unique… the fabrics collage in all looks, that is an art of- in- fashion., the real Couture created by brillian couturieras John Galliano is. And that is Maison Margiela by John Galliano- it is John Galliano’s Martin Margiela, every Artisanal collection is particular, there are no similar pieces, that is all about creativity and beauty. Brilliant!

 

 

 

 

Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2016

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Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2016.

Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016 show

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Karl Lagerfeld unveiled Chanel haute Couture S/S 2016 collection.Karl Lagerfeld created his own perfect eco System last morning, transforming the Grand Palais into an energy efficient Zone. Yes,this time  it was a celebration of nature, which gave rise to a bucolic springtime wardrobe, comprising a lot of beige. “Gabrielle Chanel was the queen of beige” explaned us Lagerfeld, whose palette ran from straw and sand to putty, taupe and hessian. The focus was on the Chanel suit , there were jackets with oval sleeves matched with strict and midi length pencil skirts and  breezy, wide culottes. Pleated dresses were feather fine,  even wooly, natural coloured tweed skirts looked lightweight, with hemlines splaying into full fringes. The most magnificent arrived with capes that were painted and embellished in twinkling rhinestones.And then, the finishing touches: crystal dragonflies, bees, and other bugs posed as brooches, shoes took the shape of a satin two-tone ballet pump atop a cork wedge and waists were accessorized with a chicer version of a bum bag – Chanel called it a smartphone pouch, because even an eco-girl needs to stay connected. And a note on the timber set! – Chanel- Karl Lagerfeld, told that it will be recycled!
 

 

photos courtesy of Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com