Giles Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

22/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Giles Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 21,2015.

The setting for Giles Deacon’s spring show was London’s Banqueting House, an ornate building that’s part of the 17th-century Whitehall Palace, complete with a Rubens ceiling. The lavish location suited his high-drama collection. Runway veterans including Eva Herzigova, Erin O’Connor and Karen Elson snaked around the vast room wearing often fantastical gowns whose shapes evoked everything from ruffled petticoats to Elizabethan silhouettes.

One satin bustier dress was structured with stiff panniers, and intricately embroidered with flowers, while another standout worn by Elson was done in a purple abstract print, with laser-cut edges that looked as if they had been charred by fire, and fan of material at the back that resembled unfurled peacock feathers.

Even Deacon’s calmer exits were still statement-making, as in a body-hugging, bias cut gown with a train, or a silk petticoat dress with tiered, billowing skirts. The collection was beautiful and arresting, and while its historical opulence overwhelmed real-world dressing, this also gave it an otherworldly, romantic Appeal.

Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week on September 21, 2015.

Christopher Kane surpised us each season with something entirely new to keep us on our toes. The interesting thing now is that those varied and brilliant ideas have built up as one to become his signature, a repertoire of techniques. When you see them, you know they’re his and this collection was especially clear in showing them off.

There was that neon lace, which more recently has slipped into his pre-collections, there were primary bolts of colour to configure with jagged and purposely-jarring appliqué and chaotic embroidery. It was a hyper take on homespun with stitching squiggling out like handwriting across a knit or a sheath of a dress. We knew we’d seen the idea once before, but here it was renewed and played out to entirely different effect. That was the point.

A kapow colour palette led the way for a collection that was about taking things apart and piecing them back together, the designer cited. „Crash and repair, that’s what we kept saying to each other.“

The train of thought followed what has been a difficult few months for Chris and Tammy, whose mother sadly passed away just before their show last February. So just as much as this was a collection inspired by John Chamberlain’s sculptures and Scottie Wilson, it was one that came from an emotional point of view. „The car crash became the metaphor,“ said Kane in his show notes.

And so that idea of damage and repair, of building back up, could be seen in the pieces, which were patched and pieced together: splaying fringing; plastic pockets; wafting layers of sheer with lace to trace the body; dresses fastened in place by plastic clasps, a brilliantly crude and inventive use of them.

Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 21,2015.

Antonio Berardi played with the contrast between precise tailoring and romantic fluidity in this glamorous, yet easy collection.The standouts were languid silk dresses with billowing trains, as in one racer-back number in a pale sky blue. That design was worn with a matching silk trench coat that slipped off the model’s shoulders, adding to the collection’s undone air. And naturally for a designer whose collections occupy high-octane territory, there was plenty of embellishment, but this season Berardi worked his decoration in a comparatively low-key way. A series of silk dresses were stitched with a lavish paisley pattern of sequins, but they were matte rather than shiny.A masculine foil to the ultra-feminine creations came from tuxedo suits that were sharply cut, but worked into relaxed, oversized shapes. Among them was a gleaming white tuxedo with black lapels with rounded, cocooning shoulders.

KTZ Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/201521/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

KTZ designer Marjan Pejoski is back to London Fashion Week with the KTZ Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection . Last collection, fall/winter 2015-2016 was shown in New York Fashion Week.

Pejoski’s exploration of urban street culture continued into the darker back alleys of an unspecified dystopia.

In the new KTZ collection the label’s signature club kid vibe remained in place, but Pejoski cashed in the nomadic vibe of previous collections and conjured a gritty urban feeling in its place. OUT with the tribal motifs , IN with chain-link Patterns.

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2016 collection – London Fashion Week

21/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection was shown in London Fashion Week, September 20,2015.

Ever since Pringle relaunched fifteen years ago under Kim Winser and Stuart Stockdale, oddness has become its stock in trade – a stubborn striving for strangeness, which banished the label’s candy-sweet golf-casual reputation to the archives, and sought to reestablish it as a serious fashion Player.Numerous designers have come and gone along the way since then, but s under chef dessigner Massimo Nicosia the label has found a new purposefulness in its focus on the techniques and technology.The past few seasons have seen Nicosia explore innovative technologies to create spectacular new surfaces.work. In this season Nicosia was trying to step back behind Pringle of Scotland’s thick-knit lambswool curtain into more elemental territory.