Fashion Weeks

Dion Lee Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection, NYFW. Dion Lee the name to remember!

| Syuzena Pitz
Australian designer Dion Lee is certainly ready for a large stage, as NYFW. A lot of us remember him about his „Debut“ during London Fashion Week, in 2012. It’s tempting to describe the appeal of Lee’s clothes in terms of their technical accomplishments: the geometry of the silhouettes; the innovative, architectural quality of the construction; the unexpected materials artfully deployed. Lee’s main focus this season was on making direct clothes,he got at directness by way of a handful of abstract ideas. One was to construct clothes such that they seemed to float away from the Body and the second one was to make clothes appear backlit—hence the motifs of perforation and crystal dappled onto material or bonded into it.  His play with hardware was very intrigiung and same time very sophisticated . Lee tried to create the tension between functional  and ornamental details, the hoop-shaped  jewelry of varying size are piercing the garments.

 

Australian designer Dion Lee is certainly ready for a large stage, as NYFW. A lot of us remember him about his „Debut“ during London Fashion Week, in 2012. It’s tempting to describe the appeal of Lee’s clothes in terms of their technical accomplishments: the geometry of the silhouettes; the innovative, architectural quality of the construction; the unexpected materials artfully deployed. Lee’s main focus this season was on making direct clothes,he got at directness by way of a handful of abstract ideas. One was to construct clothes such that they seemed to float away from the Body and the second one was to make clothes appear backlit—hence the motifs of perforation and crystal dappled onto material or bonded into it.  His play with hardware was very intrigiung and same time very sophisticated . Lee tried to create the tension between functional  and ornamental details, the hoop-shaped  jewelry of varying size are piercing the garments.

A triumph of glam rock-Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection

| Syuzena Pitz
The most anticipated Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016-2017 menswear show, during which famous designer Hedi Slimane has shown the first part of his womenswear collection finally  took place ,second  part  will be unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, later this fashion season. Hedi Slimane choosed the Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard in his beloved City  of Angeles for  his spectacular Show.Inspired by Californian subculture, Slimane’s collection paid homage to his most treasured rock idols.  It was the second project Hedi Slimane has curated in the City ( the first was  his contemporary photography show in November 2011)The 93-look collection also celebrated the 50th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche collection, and the looks paid subtle homage to his legacy.The collection was mostly unisexe and saw Hedi returning to his signature style pieces. The girls  were all dressed in the sort of midi-length skirts or culottes and Victoriana dresses favored by Loulou de La Falaise at the cusp of the ’70s, complete with the broad belts, shrunken jackets, or Berber capes she wore with them.The  boys  wore Slimane’s signature sprayed-on jeans, or skinny cut pants with a military stripe down the side, and elaborately embellished Hussar jackets. Let us attend the second part of Slimane’s show- Womenswear Part II. The Fashion month is began yet.

 

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016

| Syuzena Pitz
The gardens of Paris and their flowers seems to be the Inspiration  during creation his spring/summer 2016 haute couture collection.
“It’s kind of a thank-you to Paris,” he said backstage. “You know that flowers are my obsession. This time they come from the Parc de Bagatelle, the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Palais-Royal, and the Jardin des Tuileries.”
 Cue the short lengths, tailor-made for the  young ladies who were sitting at front row during his show Cue the exaggerated volumes, this time focused on bishop sleeves, Watteau backs, and a handful of empire-waist gowns. And cue the by now trademark parade of tulle plissé grand finale gowns, the boldest and best in a pulsating shade of red poppy.Sparkle and sequin were downplayed here in favor of colorful embroideries and appliqués; when Valli did employ crystals, it was in grid-like patterns as precise as his flowers were flamboyant. As a rule, the fleurs were more persuasive. They came in many forms: picked out in paillettes on an organza empire-waist dress; as swirling garlands on short-in-front/long-in-back gowns of lace macramé; and, quite prettily, intarsia-ed in a rosebush motif on a short coat in white mink.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 2016 ‚Le Palace‘ collection

| Syuzena Pitz
Jean Paul Gaultier unveiled his Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week.This was a good Jean Paul Gaultier  show and, as always, , Gaultier shows are not only a celebration of fashion but an ode to those who make fashion what it is,constantly reinvent the stuff of fashionworld dreams.Collection is full of clothes that many of us would enjoy wearing to go to night clubs. Pieces like a fully embroidered men’s smoking jacket sashed at the waist with a silk braid and tassels; a tuxedo made from white marabou feathers trimmed in black bugle beads worn with fishnets instead of pants; and a one-shoulder lace-edged cape covered in crystals. Though undoubtedly a lot of work went into these items, the overall attitude wasn’t precious. Quite the opposite: An oversize souvenir jacket was tossed casually over a sequined dress; another evening number was topped by a jean jacket; there were shorts. Bleached denim and silk that looked like bleached denim formed the basis of a handful of Looks.You got the feeling that Gaultier wasn’t taking things too seriously. Outliers such as a chartreuse robe layered under a blue beaded body-con dress could’ve sagely remained back in the atelier. Still, when he puts his mind to it, he can cut one hell of a suit. The frilled lapels on an otherwise crisp wool jacket took all the business out of its pinstripes. The fit on a black crepe sheath with orange lace spilling out of a slit in the back was pretty divine, too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ‚Artisanal‘

| Syuzena Pitz
John Galliano exhibits one more time a natural affinity for Margiela’s Artisanal collection.Galliano’s   Artisanal collections used to tell stories of a depth and complexity.Maison Margiela S/S 2016 ‚Artisanal‘  is the best collection which was shown during Haute Couture Week. The creativity pure! The white coat in wool and twill silk, , a silk twill skirt suit which was draped with lamé, one sleeve coat with jacquard…precious „simplicity“ where every detail is particular, is unique… the fabrics collage in all looks, that is an art of- in- fashion., the real Couture created by brillian couturieras John Galliano is. And that is Maison Margiela by John Galliano- it is John Galliano’s Martin Margiela, every Artisanal collection is particular, there are no similar pieces, that is all about creativity and beauty. Brilliant!