Chanel Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

06/10/201507/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

For the occasion, Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into a mock airport terminal complete with baggage check, numbered gates, a departures and arrivals board which listing past Chanel destination show locales, and baggage carts stamped with double-C logos. In the front row were Chanel muses : Lily-Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis and Cara Delevigne.

And Edie Campbell opened the show in a multicolored tweed jumpsuit with silver sandals and a silvery headband, toting a black Chanel rolling suitcase and carryall.The airplane motif carried from the set onto the clothing and accessories, with one dress patterned like an arrivals board, and a sweater and pair of knit pants set in a repeating airplane intarsia. The red, white, and blue airplane pins that adorned some looks will make it possible for any ensemble to be ready for travel from the Chanel terminal.Many looks featured backward baseball caps. When they didn’t, the models’ hair was worn with several headbands and pulled back into two low pigtails at the nape of the neck.

Amidst the flowing dresses and loose casualwear came a section of proper ladies, ready to take to the sky in style. With sharply tailored tweed suits and iconic flap bags, these looks harkened back to a time when dressing up for travel was de rigueur.

And for his bow, Lagerfeld picked up two of his frequent collaborators from the front row, Delevingne and Hudson Kroenig dressed as a Pilot, and walked with them around the set.

Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201506/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Hedi Slimane unveiled his Saint Laurent spring/summer collection.

Hedi Slimane has turned Saint Laurent into a power brand. More than that, the success of his breaking down the house and rendering it into accessible, uncomplicated items has set off a chain reaction at the top of the designer fashion industry.. Not everyone can package up a look and whack it to the public in such a first-degree, widely understandable as Slimane. For Spring, one glance at the lowbrow tiaras, the sparkly see-through mini-mesh dresses, the rock-chick leather jackets, and the skinny legs of the models shoved into Wellington boots told us where he was going. To Glastonbury with Courtney and Kate Moss it was, with an entourage of throwback shaggy-headed waifs and a caravan-load of ready-made vintage-y stuff.

Slimane was smart to suggest he was pitching it in a more down-to-earth way this season. There is a movement toward real, ordinary clothes going on. Slimane seemed to have tuned into that when he came up with a perfectly ordinary beige trenchcoat, sand-color camisole, jeans and black Wellingtons, a faded army-surplus shirt, patchworked denim capes, and leather bomber jackets . For the people who only saw the Saint Laurent collections via their cell phones or computers, it is hard to comprehend the quality of the materials and the detailed craftsmanship that go into every shimmering see-through minidress or patchwork denim coat that appears on the runway. Underneath all of Silmane’s sartorial insubordination are well-made clothes that are deftly executed.The designer titled this collection “Saint Laurent Skin,” and while he might still be getting under the skin of a few people, Silmane also has found a way for the brand to completely shed the skin of its past for one of his own making

Sonia Rykiel Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201506/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Julie De Libran unveiled Sonia Rykiel spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection.

Julie de Libran was greeting guests at the entrance of Sonia Rykiel’s Boulevard Saint Germain boutique yesterday. A poster of a blue cocktail as an invitation, an abundance of colorful libations proffered up upon arrival at the show, a catwalk covered in glitter and a cool two-woman electronic band called C.A.R. singing elliptically in French mean just one thing: it’s party time at Sonia Rykiel and ist’s a Julie de Libran’s debut in the role of creativ director.She comes to Rykiel from Louis Vuitton, where she designed the preseason collections under Marc Jacobs.

De Libran has a light touch, Rykiel’s signature stripes materialized in many different guises: on tweedy tailoring, knitted fur chubbies, a belted organza peasant dress and the bikini underneath it, even on a basic V-neck. As a female designer, she can romance an easy three-quarter-length denim skirt or an army parka just as well as she can a sequined minidress, but by the end of the collection, things were very Glamour- there were a final series of richly colored sequin gowns. They will shimmer and sparkle even in the darkest corner of a european’s famous nightclubs. And for those who prefer a more understated boit de nuit alternative, de Libran has got them covered. Wearing a pair of silk pajamas covered in a delicate bird motif to go out dancing all night just sounds like the chicest thing going.

Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201507/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Giambattista Valli is finding favour with the little babydoll dress right now – it’s a style that underpins his Giamba line and it’s one that he gave to us in the plenty last season. Only where then it was over trousers for long and lean lengths, this time round it was about bare legs on show and great flat-formed gladiator sandals that climbed the length of the leg beneath a coat of similar proportions up top. He continued with his riff on Seventies patterning and made sure there was a handful of gowns to swoon over too,they billowed in hippy grace and half morphed into the babydoll numbers that preceded them. Valli seems to have found a new youthful groove when it comes to his ready-to-wear line.

Sacai Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

05/10/201507/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

The hallmark of the Sacai brand is its hybrid designs..A dress is never simply a dress. A jacket is not just a jacket. Dis-assembled, re-configured then re-assembled is the Sacai way The results always being a cool crossbreed of Beauty.

At this season Chitose Abe was brimming with ideas inspired by thrift-shop throw-away finds. Her treasures comprised souvenir scarf prints, hers depicted a safari Leopard scene, american bandana motifs,victorian lace – all came together to create cropped bombers with open backs, military jackets with gold guipure lace and epaulettes streaming in silk cord, knife-pleated skirts and wide leg trousers gashed open.