All about fashion

Gucci Fall/Winter 2016 collection

| Syuzena Pitz
Alessandro Michele unveiled Gucci fall/winter 2016 collection during the first day of Milan Fashion Week.

 

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2016-17 by Sarah Burton

| Syuzena Pitz
Sarah Burton has shown the most beautiful, sensitive, and breathtaking crafted Alexander McQueen  collection in London. What she started in the pre-fall 2016 collection, is reappeared in fall 2016 collection, along with owls, swans, moons and stars, drifting on embroidered sophisticated textiles as tulle and organza. Anyway, this collection is on the level of haute couture. She described her woman as: “Almost sleepwalking, in a state where reality and dreams become blurred.” About the collection : It started with black coats, variously jacquarded with pocket watches, eyes, and butterflies, or sculpted from fine leather and then hand-painted with flowers by a specialist floral artist. Tailoring was always one of McQueen’s power bases, and the mannish  exactitude of the double-lapel suits honored that  in a modern, feminine way.There were lacy bras and sleeves cut to fall off shoulders. Then came the knit dresses, which cascaded in gossamer layers as delicate as lace. And finally, we were in the place of dreams. The bodices of black tulle dresses were set with jeweled stars, each one a masterpiece. Satin duvet jackets, and a final superb shell-pink eiderdown coat, lined with marabou- it was a triumph! The tenderness and the technical expertise she mustered for this collection was brilliant.Burton’s own vision for McQueen is fully realized and applauded to the skies. The more she has relaxed into the confidence of her feminine instincts, the better she’s become. It was fitting that the venue she chose was the same one in which she assisted Lee McQueen at a show 20 years ago.

 

 

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2016-2017 #London Fashion Week

| Syuzena Pitz
Gareth Pugh unveiled fall/winter 2016-2017 collection during London Fashion Week.
Pugh has an incredible way with fluidity, but he always tends to gravitate towards angles – sharp shoulders, exaggerated triangles. While enveloping, wrap-around jackets made an appearance, alongside sweeping wide-leg trousers, it was the stiffer tailoring that seemed to define the collection. On remembering the power dressing of the eighties and the years where to be taken seriously woman had to dress like a man, I wondered, at first, why Pugh would latch on to such a conservative idea. But then, look closely, and this felt like a parody of that – the models cheeks were hitched up with wire to suggest a fake, cartoon woman. Indeed, this woman wasn’t seeking to blend in the boardroom, but terrify in the boardroom. Those Hannibal Lecter masks certainly suggested she was ready and willing to eat you alive. It seems lazy or cliched to call Pugh’s work futuristic, but he does sometimes seem to cater to some super human creature – one unruffled by real life.

 

 

Sibling Fall/Winter 2016 , London Fashion Week

| Syuzena Pitz
Sibling fall/winter 2016-2017 collection . London Fashion Week.
Inspired by Grace Jones Sibling’s collection  was fantastic.This was a boisterous, confident Show. It’s easy just to focus on Sibling’s catwalk theatrics – the bare breasts with  star-shaped nipple covers, the sexy retro body suits, the knit raffia-snoods, the plethora of lurex, the signature leopard print. But if you look beyond the obvious, they’re pushing a more complex form of dressing that extends far beyond show pieces and statement knits. It’s a new kind of power dressing, one that rejects the notion that one has to look ‘serious’ to be smart. The Sibling woman has always been a force to be reckoned with, but she had a new authority for A/W 16. Sibling not only push knitting excellence but they also promote a better, more sustainable, more positive view of femininity ,one that’s built around strength rather than mere style.

 

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 2016 ‚Le Palace‘ collection

| Syuzena Pitz
Jean Paul Gaultier unveiled his Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week.This was a good Jean Paul Gaultier  show and, as always, , Gaultier shows are not only a celebration of fashion but an ode to those who make fashion what it is,constantly reinvent the stuff of fashionworld dreams.Collection is full of clothes that many of us would enjoy wearing to go to night clubs. Pieces like a fully embroidered men’s smoking jacket sashed at the waist with a silk braid and tassels; a tuxedo made from white marabou feathers trimmed in black bugle beads worn with fishnets instead of pants; and a one-shoulder lace-edged cape covered in crystals. Though undoubtedly a lot of work went into these items, the overall attitude wasn’t precious. Quite the opposite: An oversize souvenir jacket was tossed casually over a sequined dress; another evening number was topped by a jean jacket; there were shorts. Bleached denim and silk that looked like bleached denim formed the basis of a handful of Looks.You got the feeling that Gaultier wasn’t taking things too seriously. Outliers such as a chartreuse robe layered under a blue beaded body-con dress could’ve sagely remained back in the atelier. Still, when he puts his mind to it, he can cut one hell of a suit. The frilled lapels on an otherwise crisp wool jacket took all the business out of its pinstripes. The fit on a black crepe sheath with orange lace spilling out of a slit in the back was pretty divine, too.