Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection designed by John Galliano – Paris Fashion Week

30/09/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

John Galliano had unveiled us his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano proposed us chic and luxuriuos looks because recycling and deconstruction can still be done so authentically,so perfect ans also be commercial, especially when it will be done by the genie as John Galliano is.

Let us speak about the show and about „new“ Galliano : also if he didn’t come out physically, this show was a kind of coming out. It was a re-emergence of an enigma. Spring/Summer 2016 brings us one step closer to the Galliano we knew in the early days – going full throttle, full of ideas and enjoying the joie de vivre of it all. In short, this show was near incredible. The first exits poured out onto the catwalk. Previous collections at Maison Margiela have seen Galliano engage with a bag lady kind of intellect Today’s version of events evoked down and out heiress. In the first part the ornate crystal jewellery was bricolaged onto the tops of ears and pinned in swathes across knee-lenth coats and slightly padded and roomy 1950s-style gowns. Paris shoes leaned back in an arched Versaille style, whilst fishnet tights were pulled over the entire shoe, and added to the unhinged styling.

There were also men on the womenswear runway , which is a new thing for the re-launched house. This is proof that the label wants to symbiotically promote dual narratives. Furthermore, due to some of the men wearing dresses, it was a signifier of the house . The mood of the designer’s avant-garde show was captured perfectly by its diverse, gender-fluid cast. While girls like Paula Galecka,Ysaunny Brito and Sora Choi, reflected a youthful, almost innocent ideal of beauty, models Maarten Convens, Vincent Beier, Carl Hjelm Sandqvist, and Théo Bianconi presented a captivating androgyny.

The final part of the show looked East for inspiration as traditional Geisha garb was transformed by Galliano into something stiffer and more structured than the original silk Kimonos. Where purses replaced obi bows, and kitten heels with pronounced posteriors were worn instead of traditional geta sandals. The result was oddly lovely and completely apart from anything else currently happening in fashion.

As ever Galliano’s hand could be seen in all. Making treasured pieces, each of which appear individual, has been his marker long before Margiela but it is one that’s flourishing as he continues to re-establish himself and the house

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Milan Fashion Week

28/09/201529/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Il Re, Mr. Giorgio Armani, did it again! His Show, his collection was the best what we saw on the Milan’s catwalks during Milan Fashion Week. It is a Happening!

Giorgio Armani continued his 40th-anniversary festivities yesterday afternoon ( 28.09.2015) with a press conference and lunch in honor of his new self-titled book of family photographs and personal remembrances. The book he said, answering questions from a large audience, gathered after his catwalk Spring Summer 16 show, inside the slick concrete lined Armani headquarters in Milan (to this day he proudly prefers to converse in his mother tongue, despite a global empire worth £5 billion), were “the pulses, the remembrances of my past,“ the designer elucidated. For those born in the 90ies, it is hard to comprehend what Armani brought to fashion 40 years ago. „I started my own revolution,“ he said. „A subtle one but also very strong. I changed the rules of fashion from the previous 20, 30 years,“ he continued. „I showed that you could wear a flat shoe with evening wear; I added softness to men’s clothes. And I envisaged that women could dress like men but with great femininity.“

And we saw this yesterday, during the Show.Elegant, chic daywear and evening dresses, . that was the Giorgio Armani spring/summer 2016 is about. That’s why Armani is still the best,that’s why we love him and his design.

All the elements that have made his name synonymous with discrete elegance were there in his show yesterday ( if you didn’t see the live Streaming, i advice to find the full Show on youtube). There was a play on silhouette, the body softened, disguised and also revealed by cleverly juxtaposed fabrics, layered one over the other. Such as ribbed organza trousers worn under suit jackets or silk dresses; a classic white work shirt was re-invented as a loose silk shirt dress, with billowing pockets worn over a sheer black silk slip. There was also a playful floral jumpsuit in bright vermillion, while crisp shorts or capacious trousers were matched with bolero jackets.

Gems cascaded down pretty party dresses, danced across bodices in red, pink, emerald and white crystal or were bunched together in sparkling orbs. Skirts were voluminous, and above the knee, in midnight blue organza, gathered and ruched at the waist. The customers will again invest in his tailoring next summer. There was something for every women! Wear Armani , that what every woman are dreaming for.

Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Milan Fashion Week

28/09/201528/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

The message was simple : Missoni want to make everyone feel welcome in their bright and colorful zigzag world. For Spring 2016,Angela Missoni took her brand back to its roots. The offering was speedy, sporty and simple in attitude with nearly the entire lineup comprised of knitwear Standards. But not only this because Angela Missoni’s boards were full of photographs of Maasai tribe and the graphic, street-centric work of the Venezuelan artist Carlos Cruz-Diez were the inspiration for the collection . The show was full of the bright, breezy, vibrant type of jet set–ready attire that has made the house iconic for decades.The silhouette was long and lean, with narrow, sweeping cardigans paired with hot pants, fete-ready halter-neck dresses in vibrant metallic pleats, and open-collared tunics paired with flowing trousers. Swimwear boasted generous looping ties or thick, layered Maasai-inspired collars.

Trussardi 1911 Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -Milan Fashion Week

27/09/201528/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Trussardi 1911 Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -Milan Fashion Week.

Gaia Trussard was already deep into her research for this collection when she caught a National Geographic documentary about Australian writer Robyn Davidson who during the late ’70s spent nine months traversing Western Australia.This all about of the contact with nature. „How nature can fill you up“ – Gaia Trussardi said

The result was a collection intended to appear sandblasted, wind-whipped, and faded by the sun. Long-skirted jackets and pleated full pants in neutral striped herringbone linen were left unfinished and tattered at the edges. The ribboned bib on a blue shirt was ruffled as if by force. Shirts—more like caftans—were delivered ankle-length, split to the hip, and worn as layers under jackets or as a piece of outerwear. The beaded prints were created from blown-up images of religious tribal masks and the models all wore Virgin Mary necklaces.

The palette swerved from neutral to pastel with debatable success; these rough-hewn, heavy-textured loose pieces rather disagreed with the prissiness of soft pink and apricot. Trussardi has complained that when it comes to using leather in her collections, she is damned if she does and if she doesn’t – than everyone asked -why didn’t she?!. Today she went with wrap split skirts and a fine raspberry duster jacket in double-layered suede and yellow jerkin-like calfskin crop tops, as well as a long gown with a half-moon panel that was cut too narrow to walk easily in. The collection was pretty good, the tailoring fine , and there was plenty to catch the eye of liberal-leaning acai eaters in search of clothes that signal urbane rusticity and luxurious roughness.

Marni Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Milan Fashion Week

27/09/201527/09/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Marni wasshown today ,September 27,2015 ,the spring/summer 2016 collection. Marni woman will have a choice, are you a Marni woman? I’m sure that the answer is yes because every women will have Marni in the wardrobe. The new collections is very Special but same time it is Marni signature. A few words about the Show:

It was a game of dress up with long sleeves splaying out over fingers, sequins jangling beneath asymmetric hems and leaf prints that danced on shoulders in yet more sequins before making a bold impact as print in yellow and green across a mid-length dress. Sculpted graphics did the same and echoed the installation surrounds of the catwalk. That favourite T-shirt-beneath-dress combination factored in a lot here – but upgraded by Marni’s signature complication.

But it’s never just the clothes to contemplate with Marni – you’re looking at those accessories just as much, because they are key in defining and describing the Marni woman. They are so often the dot on the „i“ and the cross on the „t“, as it were. Those same leaves hung from lobes in gold, wrists were weighted down by angular bangles and bags were long, width-wise, in metallic and scrunched like a sandwich bag or came as luxe shoppers. It is elegant, comfortable and same time very chic!