Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

03/10/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his spring/summer 2016 collection in Paris Fashion Week.

Yamamoto’s spring collection was brimming with the fashion for which he’s famous. Black. Wrapping. Draping. Deconstruction. Sophistication.

Black fabric came gracefully draped and knotted around the body in asymmetric versions of Greco-Roman and Japanese robes. Lean and sensual, flashing flesh here and there, the silhouettes took on an urban tone when paired with high-top sneakers. In a shift to corroded romance, corsets overflowed with fabric and boning over layered hoop skirts. It segued to an artful street vibe with graffiti in the shape of hands on a cutout bodice. A black corset dress, cut up and draped over a broken-down denim cage skirt and jeans, provided the collection’s most current and cool Moment.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection -Paris Fashion Week

03/10/201503/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Designer Alexander Wang left Maison Balenciaga.Today,02.October 2015,he unveiled his last collection designed for the Balenciaga House.Wang will now focus solely on his eponymous fashion house based out of New York.“

Back to Wang’s last Balenciaga Show: it seems that his swan song was the freest of any of the collections he did for the house, and the most tender.

„When you know it’s your last anything, you say, ‘Let’s take a risk,’ what do you have to lose?” Wang said backstage. “At a house that’s known for innovation, I thought, ‘Let’s think about it the opposite way, let’s think about fabrics and shapes that feel supple and simple, but approach them in an artisanal, couture way.’ ”

Ivory silk-satin dresses streamed in ruffles, while white feather garlands were wrapped and draped and appliquéd on layered tops, smocked cotton summer dresses and playsuits. Elsewhere, there were beautiful scoop-back, finely knitted wool slips with embroidered lace inserts; sumptuous matelassé jackets and lace hotel-room style slippers, all of which glided out on a soft, dusty pink carpet beside gently rippling water installations. Every look was a dreamy shade of white, from the ruffled slip dresses to the low-slung trouser and crop top pairings.

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

02/10/201502/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Creativ designer of Lanvin ,Alber Elbaz unveiled us his spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection in Paris Fashion Week .How nice it was to see – i’m speaking about live streaming here,-Alber Elbaz putting Lanvin out there on the front line yesterday evening. He staged his spring-summer collection as theater, placing the Lanvin name up in glittering lights at one end of the runway and sending out a show he said was a “manifesto.”

Ruth Bell opend the show,wearing a men’s inspired white dress shirt paired with black slim-fit pants. The first look gave a hint of what was to come—a collection which was heavily influenced by menswear as shown by the subsequent looks including tuxedo inspired jackets and high necklines. The show moved swiftly through “acts.” First, black and white daywear—pants and blouses with balloon sleeves or rippling flounces were followed by chic-simple silk dresses.

Chloé Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

01/10/201501/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

Chloé threw something of a curveball today,01. October 2015. Instead of the wistful silhouettes came tracksuits, sporting stripes and carnival colours referencing a different dimension of the 70ies, the decade the house continues to reinvent so well. It’s not what you would immediately associate with the romantic Chloé girl, but as Clare Waight Keller explained after the show, this was about finding a new optimism.The usual lace slips were grounded with jogging bottoms; the signature cheesecloth maxi-dresses came not in cornflower blue and toffee hues but in sherbet shades; and bootcuts were replaced by easy, low-slung harem pants. It was relaxed and easy, as though Chloé’s girl was a girl on her gap year . Chloé unveiled us very youthful,really sophisticated high summer collection

Vionnet Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection – Paris Fashion Week

01/10/201501/10/2015 | Syuzena Pitz

According to the press notes at the show, the new Vionnet collection was inspired by curves and by dancing. That’s the thing about semiotics, though: To each her own! An alternative reading of Goga Ashkenazi’s latest outing for the label was vestal virgins circa 2500 A.D. attending a postapocalyptic prom. That seemed as coherent a logic as any for this rather daffy group of clothes, what with the gartered bodysuits and sheer, floor-sweeping overskirts, plissé gowns worn with backpacks, and feral leathers and capes.

The plissé and the Grecian draping were a nod to Madeleine Vionnet, of course, and she would have had no trouble identifying her handwriting in a simple column dress of draped nude and ivory silk, or in the bone white draped frock with jewelry embellishment modeled at the close of the show by Saskia de Brauw. She might even have nodded in recognition at a micro-mini plissé dress—an ace look for a would-be modern Artemis. There were other nice pieces scattered throughout—the fabrics here were choice, and it was hard not to like most of them—but the button-down-plus-bubble-skirt and bodysuit-plus-anything propositions were a seriously hard sell. Ashkenazi appears to want to update the Vionnet formula, make it seem aggressively modern; the trouble with that is, Madeleine Vionnet’s ideas are timeless and look modern still. Witness the appeal of the simplest, most signature Vionnet looks here.